MWX4 Washer - Instructions

This repair is realy very easy
As discribed by the others

Repair was relativly simple. I read previous customer direction submissions. I found that laying the front of the washing macine down removing the back panel gave easy access to the water pump. Remove all 4 hoses first then with a 11/32nd socket remove the top 3 screws that are holding up the pump. At the bottom of the pump unscrew the cl ... Read more amp until the pump will slide out of the rubber stabelizer.(Leave stabelizer attached to the motor) Remove the pump and in reverse order replace with new pump leaving the back cover off of the machine. Set the washing machine upright and check for leeks. After checking for leeks attach the back panel onto the washing machine.

Lifted lid/top of washer pulling straight up and removed front panel (2 screws at bottom). Removed old tub cover by prying tabs off the tub clips. Aligned new cover and seal over tub and pressed down to engage tabs with tub clips. Easy repair. Re-installed front panel and 2 screws, closed washer top by pressing down to engage the spring c ... Read more lips. I used anti-seize grease on the front panel screws and I used a small amount of petroleum jelly on the top/lid spring clips to make future removal easier(just in case.)

remove enough screws in rear panel to access water inlet valve. remove two screws holding water inlet valve to washer frame and flex valve outward enough to remove clamp on water inlet tube. wiggle inlet tube off of valve inlet nipple and back valve out enough to see wires. after noting wiring color codes remove the four wires from the ol ... Read more d valve and discard old valve. install the new valve simply by reversing entire process. only difficult part of entire process is removing and reinstalling the inlet tube on the valve body as the tube is short and limits room to work.

Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.

The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of ... Read more the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.

This was my daughter's washing machine. I looked at the back of the machine to see if there was an opening to get to the parts. Since the back is all closed up. I knew the front had to come off. I pride up, and I pride out, and finally the front popped off. After taking the front cover off the washer. I could see the belt was all chewed u ... Read more p. We ordered a new belt from partselect and got it a day early. I tried to pry the belt on without loosening up anything. I couldn't get it. So I loosened the four bolts on the motor mount and slid the motor backwards towards the other pulley. I put the belt on both pulleys and pried the motor forward to tightened the belt up. Then tightened all four bolts. Put the front guard back on and tried the washer to see if we had any other problems.

Popped the top by pushing in front clips with screwdrivers. Removed spin shield. Removed agitator and hub cover (all by hand). Used 12pt. socket to remove three bolts holding the tub. Pulled up tub (difficult b/c of weight and slippery residue). Loosened clamps w/ nutdriver and removed boot. Scrubbed clamps clean and reinstalled eve ... Read more rything.
Forgot to get clamps really snug, so it dripped a little. Did everything second time, but before replacing tub, did a leak check by running a load. Worked great. Good luck.

Removed the back of the machine and then flipped the machine on the side and loosened the motor to get the old belt off. A piece came out so we had to check the schematics online to figure out where it went. We believe it was the out-of-balance cut off switch. So to fix that we unplugged the motor assembly and took it out. I also had to ... Read more fish the spring out of the vacuum, no small task. The worst part was that the belt was so deteriorated that it was super greasy and the carpet ended up a mess. We replaced the motor and belt and now it actually gets the water out of the clothes. Simply Green cleaner was used for the rug and after some strong elbow grease it was cleaned. If not for the mess and the other part and the vacuum snafu, I would have labeled this as easy.

-Remove front panel - 2 screws
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
- ... Read more Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)

Laid washer face down, unscrewed the 3 screws holding part to brackets. Removed the hose connections to the pump part. loosened the clamp around the base of the pump and pulled the part out. inserted new pump, tightened the clamp, reconnected the hoses, and bolted the part to the brackets. First time through, one of the hoses was not ... Read more tight enough, so we put a new clamp on it and it worked fine.

First, I unplugged the washer then removed the front panel to the washing machine, then the pump cover, then the two hoses connected to the pump, draining them into a small bowl. I removed the ground wire and electrical connections.

Then I removed the two bolts holding down the pump and removed it. I had to pivot the hose co ... Read more nnections on the pump to match the old one. Once I did this, I removed the hold-down bracket from the old pump and installed it on the replacement pump.

Getting the hoses clamped back on the new pump was a challenge, and I finally used an automotive clamp on the rear hose. Once the hoses were connected, I bolted the pump back in, reconnected the power and ground connections and replaced the cover.

Overall, it was a fairly straightforward installation and the only challenging part was the hose clamps.

Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turne ... Read more d the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.

Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse ... Read more replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.

With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain h ... Read more ose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.