MWX4 Washer - Instructions

My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which ... Read more they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.

Pump replacement quite simple - most difficult part of job was figuring out how to disassemble outer washing machine panels. Pump required disconnecting 2 hoses and an electrical connection.

I ordered pump so I would have it on hand. I didn’t want the washer in pieces waiting on parts. New pump came in 2-3 days with standard shipping. Found a video online for this model. Removed top. Removed control panel and set on front edge of frame. Removed door seal spring. Removed front panel and separated seal from drum. Pump located a ... Read more t bottom left. Removed pump screws. Got a shallow pan from kitchen to catch water. Removed hoses and trap. Not much water. Took trap boot and pump to sink for cleaning and found a bra wire had made it past the screen and was rubbing on pump impeller. That was the noise. Cleaned and reinstalled old pump. Has been running for 2 months without a problem. Easily returned the new pump! Highly recommend this company and site. Will come here for my repair jobs first. Hope I remembered all the steps correctly since it has been over 2 months.

Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the ... Read more video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.

ordered the new pump,its a lot more heavy duty than the orginal.had to change the mounting bracket somewhat. the new pump mounted bythe bottom of the pump housing and theold pump mounted by the side of the pump housing. so, wnere the curve was in the mount, I used the bench grinder to cut the curve out to make a flat surface for the new p ... Read more ump to rest in ,also drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the mount for the bolts to mount the pump.

After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall ... Read more assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.

simply removed top of washer(where the lid is) and removed old parts and installed new ones. It was just a matter of disconnecting the hoses and electrical connections. Make sure to unplug washer first.

I changed the Water Inlet Valve in less than 15 minutes. The valve fit exactly, and the water hoses fit right on. I turned on the water and the washer filled without hesitation. The cost was 15.00, this beat the 62.00 price I was given by GE for the part alone.

Loosened top of washer from spring tabs and leaned it against wall, removed two phillip head screws from the front bottom panel, removed panel. Removed spring clamps from 2 hoses( make sure water is drained from tub before doing this!!) on pump, removed 2 wire connectors. Used nutdriver to remove 2 screws that held down pump. Replaced pum ... Read more p and everything else installs in reverse. Almost forgot, the plate that holds the pump to the bottom of the washing machine has to be removed from the old pump and attached to the new one.

Disconnected power, removed hoses, removed housing and pump. Re oriented drain pipes on pump to align with washer hoses (just twist collar and re set) attach foot bracket and secure to washer bottom. Attaching the hoses with the compression clamps was a bit of a problem until I used pliers to press the ends together and then an adjustab ... Read more le wrench to hold them tight. Slid on hoses and released clamps. Replaced electrical and secured pump cover. Done in about 15 minutes.

remove one hose clamp.pulled hose from back of washer.replaced with new hose in same procedure.best of all i had my new hose in two days.great serviceand inventory.

Tilted the clothes washer back to provide easy access. Then after scrubbing the floor - which took most of the time of the repair, screwed out the broken leg and screwed in the new leg or SCREW. Easy peasey.

I emptied the washer and unplugged it from the wall. Then i pulled it out so I could get behind it. Next unscrewed the water hoses from the washer. Removed the plate holding the water inlet valve by unscrewing 2 screws holding it to the machine (I used Vise Grip/pliers). Note which side of plate goes up/outward so you can put it bac ... Read more k on! Removed 2 more screws that hold the valve to the plate. Remove clamp from valve end to disconnect valve from tubing with a screwdriver. I was able to remove the tubing with a twisting motion even though my washer is way over 10 years old. Remove 4 electrical clips from the valve by pulling them out, (REMEMBER the order of the electrical wires!!). Install new valve by doing this in reverse. Then run test cycle, success and saved hundreds of dollars!

Very easy
Unhook electricity
Took bottom front cover off
Took plastic motor cover off
Unhooked electrical connections
Moved clams on hoses and took hoses off
Took bolts out that held in pump
Took bottom bracket off of old pump and put it on new pump
Turned the adjustable hose connection to the right ... Read more same posstion as old pump
Bolted new pump on
Connected the water hoses
Connected the electrical connections
Bolted plastic motor guard back on
Bolted on front bottom cover
Plugged in and Wallaa!!!
I run one load before installing front cover, to watch for leaks
And the video sent with email was very helpful
Thanks
And have a good day!

Could smell burning rubber as it tried to spin, so figured it was the belt. No, I did no do it the hard way by removing the screws etc. I threaded the belt on the pulleys on one side, and slowly turned them, using my fingers to force thread the belt into place. Worked like a charm.