KUIS18P KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

The post I read said start at the middle and work your way out towards the left and right. This was incorrect. All I did was secure one end to the torx screw and tighten it down. I then slowly pulled the wire as tight as I could around each insulator, going slow so as to not kink the wire (very easy to do). Once I was at the other tor ... Read more x screw I used a pair of linesman plyers to gently tug each wire tighter, I needed an extra pair of hands to hold the grid down. Once everything was tight I wrapped the last torx screw and tightened. Here's what no one is saying, you will not get the wire as tight as it originally was but that's ok. After I got everything reinstalled the ice maker is making ice like a champ.

Water was not being drawn from the reservoir to the evaporator plate, so I concluded that the recirculation pump had failed. I first unplugged the machine from electrical power. To improve access to the pump, I removed the cutter grid using a nut driver and squeezing the electric connections to separate them. I also removed the reservoir, ... Read more first removing the drain pipe by pulling it downward and the using pliers to loosen the thumbscrews until I could turn them by hand. I then thoroughly cleaned both the cutter grid and the reservoir to improve performance once the repair was done. The pump is covered by a solid plastic screen attached by just one nut, which is removed easily with the nut driver. The pump itself is attached with three screws which are easily removed with the nut driver and by an electrical connection which loosens by squeezing. Indeed, Upon examination, i found that the pump shaft was stuck solid and did not turn freely, explaining why it did not work. Replacing the pump, reattaching the three screws and reattaching the electric connection was pretty easy except for the right rear screw behind the pump which was hard to reach to guide the screw without a trick up my sleeve. The trick was to wrap scotch tape around the screw and the nut driver so that I could guide the screw one-handed. Once the screw threaded through a few turns, I jerked back the nut driver, pulling the tape off the screw. I then removed the tape from the nut driver and continued to tighten that screw and the rest, and then reattached the electrical connection. I then reattached the screen, the reservoir and the cutter grid, then plugged my machine back into the electric circuit and was pleased to watch it hum back to life, good as new and performing better than it was before the pump had failed.

removed broken wire, replaced with new wire and screwed the 6 tensions screws to tighten the grid wire.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

I used the cleaning solution that I purchased from you and my ice maker is now working perfectly !!!!

Thanks for the fast shipping !!

Happy Holidays !!

Unplugged refrigerator, Removed lower back panel, Removed fan from fan bracket, Installed new fan to fan bracket, Installed new wire assembly to fan, Replaced back panel. Plugged refrigerator back in and it works great. Only tool needed was 1/4" socket.

Replaced the assy. But, I would have been happier if you sold just the wires. I could have replaced the wires at a much lower cost and may have taken less than an hour to replace the wires.Still happy - the ice maker works.

Unbolted valve from wall. Unplugged electical connection then unplugged two water lines by pulling them out of valve. Put in new valve-reinserted electrical plug and water lines. Bolted new valve back to wall.

The repair was fairly easy. Take out screws and lift top of ice maker but do not take off. Having 2 people to do this helps. Clean all parts with calcium deposits. Replace all moldy or broken parts. Some parts are harder to replace. The back screw of the pump is difficult to install. Use a magnetic screw driver for help holding the ... Read more screw. We used a little wax to keep the screw on the driver. The ice maker works better than it has in 2 years.

We had the coldest winter in 114 years in north Texas (must be global warming...) and our outdoor kitchen ice maker value assembly frozen and cracked.

1) Remove bottom panel screws using nut driver
2) Remove door screws
3) Unhook two power connectors from value assembly
4) Release water supply quick connects
... Read more />5) Replace value
6) Re-install door - this is a a little tricky there is a spring on each side which slows the door when opening and this pulls the door down which means the screw are not properly aligned by default. You basically have to pull the door up( a second set of hands help) and attach the screws and then let it go.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the ... Read more switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

Simple remove the fan and motor, plug in the new cord and screw in the new motor.