KUIS18P KitchenAid Ice Maker - Instructions

The water filled on startup (actually over-filled, which was a clue). After that water was used to make ice, no new water came in so the recirculation pump just made whining noises in the mostly empty reservoir. Since water could come in (on start up) I reasoned it wasn't the water inlet valve, and everything else suggested the ice maker ... Read more was getting inaccurate info about how much water was in the reservoir. Turns out, the water recirculation pump has a water level sensor built in. So while the pump itself still functioned, the water level sensor inside had gone bad. Replacing the pump fixed the issue. There are videos online that show how to accomplish that, but it was pretty straight-forward. The dis-assembly was sometimes irritating because it's hard to see and maneuver around inside. It'll help if you put the machine closer to eye level. Pay close attention to videos that show the disassembly because there are a couple of tabs that are hard to find.

removed the clip that the motor was attached too put the new motor back on reinstalled the clip back on the fridge plugged the wire harness in and works perfect now . it was easier to remove the clip than to try to install the motor by itself its just to tight and you cant get in there

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Took the two pumps tested them with 12 volt Battery. one pump didn't work. Looked up part nomber on Google and it lead me to this Co.

First I removed the cutter grid assembly by removing two screws. Also disconnect the wire that powers the grid. Once on the bench, simply remove the broken cutter wire. String in the new wire, starting at one end and working back and forth to the other end. Tighten the terminal screw on the first end, and then "strum" the wires, one a ... Read more t a times, pulling the wires taught. Pull the excess wire thru the second terminal, until all wires are taught, with equal tension. Tighten the second terminal screw, and cut off excess wire at both ends. Re-assemble cutter grid into Ice Maker.
Problem solved!

In pre-replacement of the circulation pump, i had read a story about how to make sure you cover the drain hole to prevent hardware from falling down it. Well I followed the instructions in doing so by covering the hole with a paper towel. After removing the pump i noticed some build up behind it. So like any other person i cleaned it u ... Read more p, and i just happened to use the paper towel covering the hole. Im sure you know what im going to tell you next. When replacing the pump i dropped a screw and yes down the drain it went. After a few laughs between my boss and I, I had to share this. When you block the drain with something leave it THERE until the job is done.

I removed the cutter cover in the front of the ice maker (3 screws), than removed the circulating pump cover (1 screw). Remove the drain tube from the cover before removing the cover from the icemanker. The drain tube is removed by pulling straight down and twisting. Remove the circulating pump, utilizing the 4 inch extension (3 screws). ... Read more Reinstalled all in reverse.

Note: install a plug in the drain hole in the bottom of the ice maker (paper towel etc). I dropped a screw on the installation and it fell in the drain hole. It did not impede the drain flow. It has now found a new home.

I'm an hvac/r technician, and regularly work on ice machines. Begin my pulling the white over beneath the control panel. It snaps in place so pull on the bottom then left out. 1/4 nut driver is all you need, and remove the screw holding the bin thermistor clip to the side. Up to the right , beneath the control panel, behind the plasti ... Read more c panel you previously removed is the mollex connector. Unplug the thermistor and follow instructions in reverse to reinstall.

First I removed the front door by removing the screw on the top hinge. Then removed the upper hinge plate. This allowed removal of the top corner retaining screw. Removed screws at three other top corners. Now I could raise the top at a 45 degree angle to remove the controller cover. The controller was connected with several wire cl ... Read more ips and held in place with two screws. Quick swap out and reverse order completion. Ice maker works like new!

I removed 4 screws holding the motor mounting bracket and removed the assy from the unit. I then removed 3 screws holding the motor to the bracket. I put the fan blade on the new motor and reattached the motor to the bracket. I plugged in the wiring adapter to the motor and reinstalled the bracket in the unit with the 4 screws. Fina ... Read more lly I attached the unit wiring connector to the motor.
It was relatively easy.

Unplugged ice maker from power source. Removed water reservoir using wing nut driver. Removed pump cover using nut driver. Removed water hose from pump discharge. Removed wiring harness from pump. Removed small water fill hose from pump bracket. Removed 3 screws holding pump assembly using nut driver. Replaced pump in reverse order. Plugg ... Read more ed in ice maker and watched it begin to fill with ice within the hour. A very straightforward repair. Saved myself about $500 compared to the estimate that Sears gave me.

Replaced the entire unit (fan and motor). Would have rated this repair as "Really Easy", but found it a little difficult because of large hands.

Removed ice scoop and holder. Remove front cover and pump bracket. Replaced pump and replaced covers. Started up and working well.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std ... Read more nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it