ALW2 - Instructions

Took the washer outside, turned the washer on its side to expose the bottom panel. Removed the old water pump (three screws and two hoses. Replaced with new water pump and connected all fittings. Real easy to do. Washer runs great now.

first I thought there is a problem with with hoses.problems like filter or hoses blocked.after I opened the hoses they were fine .Water was going out with power .Then I opened the valve connected to the hoses . I checked these hoses withe help of a 12 volt battery . the valve was not opening so I came to the conclusion that this part is ... Read more broke.is not easy to change this part.Small place and hard to unlock the hose inside .They could design this much easier with just using longer hose.But I think then nobody will call service dept.

Unplug from power Source,turn off water supply,Remove 3 screws that hold the Control Panel in Place.Remove knob, lower assembly, unplug wire Connector,using pliers , compress vacuum hose clamp,remove vacuum hose,remove screw holding switch in place,depress plastic tab that prevents movement,twist switch assembly to remove.Reverse procedur ... Read more e to install new switch.

1. Pulled top off (liquid softener dispenser section)
2. Put 2 socket extension and a 13 mm socket together with socket wrench (tool).
3. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and unscrew bolt.
4. Remove tool and then remove old agitator.
5. Turn old agitator upside down to remove bolt.
6. Insert new ... Read more agitator where old agitator was in washer.
7. Insert bolt.
8. Insert tool with 13mm socket end into old agitator and screw in bolt.
9. Pop top back on.

Hardest part was finding extensions because one wouldn't reach.

Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!

Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub sp ... Read more rings, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ec ... Read more ectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.

remove agitator then remove center bolt from hub, match bolt with longer bolt so that gear puller will work. install bolt and gear puller and twist top of gear puller until hub is removed. remove old seal ,use sand cloth or emery cloth to remove all deposits from shoulder. make it shinny, use some dawn dishwashing soap to line the inside ... Read more of the new seal at the bottom and slide into place.take a piece of 2" PVC about 4" long and slide over the top of the seal and tap with a rubber hammer until seal is seated firmly on shoulder. look to see that there are no gaps with a inspection mirror or a make-up mirror.If their are no gaps ,install the hub and tap on the new hub with the rubber hammer. the hub will not seat all the way down so use the old bolt to pull it down, now take out the old bolt and install the new one, this is because the new one has lock tite on it ,your done!

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinst ... Read more alled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.

removed the front of the washer, removed the motor and pump. Reinstall new pump.

Removed the motor and mount, removed pump, replaced motor,pump,belt and mount and re-installed. Everything fit and functioned.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

Popped off bleach cap on top then got socket and long extension removed bolt, cleaned a little then replaced new agitater top.Replaced bleach cap and i was done.

I called Lucky Buy when I realized it was more than the drain hose.
I asked if they would install for the same $55 if I got the parts online for less than their price & they said yes.
Once the parts came, they came back (Initial call was $20) for the $55 part replacement call.
At one point he said he had to leave & came bac ... Read more k in 20 mins with the pump sawed off (into pieces - it was frozen on the base!)...
He also installed a new belt (Also ordered here for less than their quote!) +
I got braided steel hoses and (3) sets of screens (I'll start changing them annually!) ~
The washer now fills AT LEAST 4x as quickly with new hoses & screens!
The clothing comes out MUCH LESS DAMP with the new belt!
+ it is FAR QUIETER with the new belt!
We're in HEAVEN over here! :-)
ONE THING:
One that first load after the repair, I noticed the water level (Set, as always, to XL) was over halfway UP the side of the agitator's fabric softner dispenser, but thought MAYBE I was "misremembering", but nooo, I don't think I was because LOTS of water spilled out the MIDDLE FRONT BOTTOM once it did the cycle...
(This did not happen when he tested it before leaving - on the SMALL cycle (Which we NEVER use)...
SO!
QUICK FIX:
We set the water level to "LARGE" and all's been fine ever since! :-)
Anyone know whick part we need for the water to stop UNDER the bottom of the fabric softner, like it used to?

I am VERY PLEASED to have found this site and Lucky Buy - I am _SURE_ I saved WAY OVER $100 total (Parts & Labor) & my 15-year old machine is AS GOOD AS NEW NOW (almost - that leak's got to GO! :-)