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ACB6 - Instructions

All Instructions for the ACB6
61 - 75 of 216

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Oven Display Dim
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Caroline from Maineville, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After turning off the breaker, my husband removed the Oven Control Panel Cover. the Display assembly was connected with two multiple wire plugs. Once those were unplugged he plugged them into the new display assembly, reinstalled it, reinstalled the control panel. Turned hte breaker back on and HOORAY, after nearly a year with no oven display it still seem odd to beable to read the clock and oven temp!
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgene from Rock City, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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Door switch for oven light
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sam from Garland, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Remove four screws on metal panel between top and lower oven doors. Pull the panel forward. You may need to open the top door partially to ease removal of panel.
2. Reach behind panel and unplug wire connector from old switch.
3. With panel free, squeeze ears on old switch and push through opening to remove.
4. Insert new switch in to hole and push from front to seat the switch. BE CAREFUL NOT to mess with the ears--if you try to splay them out (to better seat the switch) the switch will come apart.
5. Hold the panel up to opening to connect the wire harness to the switch.
6. Realign the metal plate to holes for screws and insert screws. (You may have to twist and turn to get the panel lined up.)
Done!
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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oven light glass cover was broken
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • wayne from LIMINGTON, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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left cover for the oven light broke when trying to replace the bulb
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from SHOREVIEW, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.
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Door Lock Switch fell apart
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yvonne from Lake Odessa, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
My son removed the switch panel and unpluged
the switch. Then he replaced it with the new
switch fasten back the panel and turned the
power back on and everythiing worked fine.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Oven would not heat
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • francis from mount holley, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.
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oven clock and temp display control and door hinge failure
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David A from Nellysford, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
For display replacement: remove top three phillip head screws and four underneath bezel screws. Detach 3 wire harness sockets. With control panel assembly detached from oven face remove two screws holding display control using socket driver and replace with new. Reverse steps for installation.
Hinge replacement: Follow guidelines written by previous comments. Before re-installing door in to oven cavity slots be sure to remove temporary hinge "open" pin (small round-head pin approx. 3/8" long which holds the spring loaded hinge in a position to insert it through the oven door housing assy. slots). Also download the PDF service manual found on the web!
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Both door hinges was simply worn out from 20+ years of usage.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from SCROGGINS, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Bought a pair for needed door hinges for replacement. Found a DIY video on You Tube showing technique to replace. Door removal was a bit awkward but hinge replacement and door reinstallation was as detailed in video. Could not nor would not have tackled this project without video. Premium quality parts sent and received within days of or dering. Wife happy therefore so am I.
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Hinge on one side had snapped.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from ALTADENA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Although only one side hinge had snapped, I replaced both sides with new oven door hinges. Followed the website video installation directions and all went well; the new hinges work perfectly.
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • phillip from Farmington, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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All Instructions for the ACB6
61 - 75 of 216