ACB6 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Self Cleaning did not work.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rick from Beaverton, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and se
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lf cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.
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Bottom oven would not heat
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jack from Seward, NE
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
When I removed the bottom bake element and tested it with an ohm meter, it was an open circuit. Once the new one arrived, I simply had to hook up the two leads, screw the cover back on the back of the oven and the job was done.
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broken glass Inside of oven door
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROBERT from Montclair, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed Door- Removed outer stainless cover(6 screws) Removed the 1st 2 glass pieces. realized that there were 4 pcs of glass, not 2 as I thought. Found 2nd assembly of 2 pcs, of glass. The piece i ordered that was called inner actually only fit on the inside of the the two outer pcs, too small to replace what was the outer piece on t
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he inside of the door. Called, returned 1st piece, got the correct one and reassembled.
Would have been easier if parts had more understandable labels such as inner door outside glass etc
beware when you order!
Would have been easier if parts had more understandable labels such as inner door outside glass etc
beware when you order!
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the hinge sring broke on one side of the oven door
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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stephen from canton, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. T
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he springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.
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Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Trace from Ofallon, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces
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of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
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Low temperature replaced heating element
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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PAUL G from FAIR OAKS, TX
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Took longer to turn off the power than replace the element ,, crazy the appliance company would charge $180.00 for a 3 minute job.
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Digital Display Was Getting Very Dim
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Curt from Hawthorn Woods, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
It took us longer to do this repair than others report, but the repair was relatively easy. As with others, our clock display was getting very dim. In fact, when we turned on the oven to bake, the clock and temperature display would both completely dim. While we were not sure that the clock assembly was the part we needed, the comments fr
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om others led us to believe that replacing the clock assembly would likely fix the problem – which it did!
To be safe, we first turned off the power to the oven. Next, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, we removed the three screws on the top of the control panel and the four screws on the bottom of the control panel. Now, the control panel is completely loose from the oven except for the two wired connectors running between the clock assembly and the oven. The two wired connectors take a little bit of care and effort to remove since a “lip” secures them. For the four-wire connector, we were able to remove the connector by wiggling and pulling on it. For the other connector, we needed to use a small flat head screw driver to bend back the lip on the clock assembly, and then still needed to wiggle and pull on the connector to get it loose. Be careful not to pull on the wires!
Note that a connector does not terminate the ribbon cable. To remove the ribbon cable, squeeze together the two tabs on each end of the connector on the clock assembly and pull up on the connector (i.e., pull away from the board). The part of the connector that you are squeezing will rise up slightly and the ribbon cable will rise up with it. (You might want to practice with the new clock assembly to see how this works as it is easier to unhook the connector when the ribbon cable is not connected.) The ribbon cable has two holes in it that fit over two pegs on the part of the connector that rises up. The ribbon cable should simply pull out once the connector is opened up.
Use a ¼” nut driver to remove the four hex head screws that attach the clock assembly to the control panel. The clock assembly is now free from the control panel, but we still needed to pull on the clock assembly to remove it since the fit was very tight.
Assembly is simply reversing the above steps. To fit the new clock assembly onto the control panel, we needed to use a pair of pliers to first slightly bend the metal tabs on the control panel outward, as the fit (as noted) was very tight. After fitting the clock assembly into place, tighten it down with the four hex head screws. If you have not already done so, release the ribbon cable assembly on the new clock assembly by squeezing the tabs and pulling up. Fit the two holes in the ribbon cable over the two pegs on the connector, and then simply push the connector piece down until it snaps into place (making sure that the ribbon cable stays on the two pegs). Take the control panel back to the oven and reconnect the other two wire connectors. To finish up, place the control panel back on the oven, replace the seven screws, and then turn the power back on.
If your experience is like ours, you will be amazed at how bright the new display is!
To be safe, we first turned off the power to the oven. Next, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, we removed the three screws on the top of the control panel and the four screws on the bottom of the control panel. Now, the control panel is completely loose from the oven except for the two wired connectors running between the clock assembly and the oven. The two wired connectors take a little bit of care and effort to remove since a “lip” secures them. For the four-wire connector, we were able to remove the connector by wiggling and pulling on it. For the other connector, we needed to use a small flat head screw driver to bend back the lip on the clock assembly, and then still needed to wiggle and pull on the connector to get it loose. Be careful not to pull on the wires!
Note that a connector does not terminate the ribbon cable. To remove the ribbon cable, squeeze together the two tabs on each end of the connector on the clock assembly and pull up on the connector (i.e., pull away from the board). The part of the connector that you are squeezing will rise up slightly and the ribbon cable will rise up with it. (You might want to practice with the new clock assembly to see how this works as it is easier to unhook the connector when the ribbon cable is not connected.) The ribbon cable has two holes in it that fit over two pegs on the part of the connector that rises up. The ribbon cable should simply pull out once the connector is opened up.
Use a ¼” nut driver to remove the four hex head screws that attach the clock assembly to the control panel. The clock assembly is now free from the control panel, but we still needed to pull on the clock assembly to remove it since the fit was very tight.
Assembly is simply reversing the above steps. To fit the new clock assembly onto the control panel, we needed to use a pair of pliers to first slightly bend the metal tabs on the control panel outward, as the fit (as noted) was very tight. After fitting the clock assembly into place, tighten it down with the four hex head screws. If you have not already done so, release the ribbon cable assembly on the new clock assembly by squeezing the tabs and pulling up. Fit the two holes in the ribbon cable over the two pegs on the connector, and then simply push the connector piece down until it snaps into place (making sure that the ribbon cable stays on the two pegs). Take the control panel back to the oven and reconnect the other two wire connectors. To finish up, place the control panel back on the oven, replace the seven screws, and then turn the power back on.
If your experience is like ours, you will be amazed at how bright the new display is!
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The display did not work - coud not tell oven temp - timer etc.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Manuel from Narrowsburg, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Removed the 3 screws from the top and 4 screws from the bottom of the touch pad. Pulled the touch pad away from the oven then disconnected the wiring harness and the strip from the old clock assembly.
Removed the 4 screws holding the assembly to the touch pad and pulled it away from the touch pad.
to assemble I just reversed the ... Read more order.
Easy project.
Removed the 4 screws holding the assembly to the touch pad and pulled it away from the touch pad.
to assemble I just reversed the ... Read more order.
Easy project.
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Elements went out in oven.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kathy from WHITE HALL, AR
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Shut off electricity to stove. Took out bolts, removed old element. Slide tabs out of connectors. Put new heating element in. Put bolts back in and turned electricity back on.
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My daughter tipped a large dish of lasagna onto the oven door and the seal.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from LK HAVASU CTY, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For t
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he installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.
I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.
I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.
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Oven erratic, not heating correctly, timer beeper sounding
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dave from SANTA BARBARA, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched
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off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.
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ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sherri from elk horn, IA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.p
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lugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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The display light was not working
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ravindra from Peoria, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed three screws on top and 4 on bottom to open the compartment of the display clock. Four more screws were removed to take the display clock itself. Three connecting wires were easily remomed (pay attention to the thin wide wire connection, you will need to pull the tabs from both end to free the wire connection). Put the new display
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light in place. Connected the wire and put the screws back.
I am not a mechanic by any means and I think everyone should be able to do it easily, as long as they know how to unscrew. (dont forget to shut off the power to the oven while doing this)
Somone had suggested that they can fix the faulty part. I will send this to them for $10 only (to cover shipping and handling). They can repair and sell it. My unit is functioning except for the infamous display failure.
I am not a mechanic by any means and I think everyone should be able to do it easily, as long as they know how to unscrew. (dont forget to shut off the power to the oven while doing this)
Somone had suggested that they can fix the faulty part. I will send this to them for $10 only (to cover shipping and handling). They can repair and sell it. My unit is functioning except for the infamous display failure.
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Innner glass in oven door was crascked and had to replace
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Irwin from Lexington, KY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took door off oven (easy - 2 screws) then toolk door apart to install new glass - also easy and only about 6 screws and removak of 4 nuts involved. Service from PartsSelect was excellent and deklivery was fast. Would use them again.
Irwin C. Cobane
Irwin C. Cobane
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needed new oven light assembly/part #PS1864256
25 of 70 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sara from Harwich Port, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.
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