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This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater to maintain the set thermostat temperature, preventing the unit from being too warm or cold. The defrost timer may need to be replaced if the fridge will not maintain its temperature or has frost buildup. Depending on the model, it could be located on the rear panel or ceiling of the fresh food compartment. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before replacing this part.
This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater to maintain the set thermostat temperature, preventing the unit from being too warm or cold. The defrost timer may need to be replaced if the fridge will not maintain its temperature or has frost buildup. Depending on the model, it could be located on the rear panel or ceiling of the fresh food compartment. Be sure to disconnect power to the refrigerator before replacing this part.
Installation Instructions
James from Navarre, FL
After getting wiring diagram off internet it was diagnosed as freezer stuck in defrost mode, temp alarm on, but fan running.
Turned gray knob on defrost timer (located bottom left back of freezer) past defrost position to verify compressor would run...it would not, but fan would run. Tested run capacitor...found borderline defective (weak, wrong value ohm meter kick). Just to be sure, removed interior shelves and interior rear and gasket to check heater at 20
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ohms as OK and removed thermostat and verified contact closure after exposure in another freezer....re-installed, hooked heater back up and re-installed interior rear panel. Replaced defrost timer by unplugging 4-pin connector, then removed 2 screws that hold it to the bracket. Installed new one in reverse order. Then removed wire bail holding run capacitor to compressor plug assembly, removed run capacitor, plugged in new one. Turned on freezer......now making ice and holding cold temperature and cycling properly between freeze and defrost modes. Two problems made this repair a bit more difficult. This is the second time that defrost timer has failed...only got 3 years from last one.
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This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. The defrost timer is located in the control housing which is in the refrigerator section of your appliance. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This timer measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide, and is constructed of plastic and metal. It comes in black/white/silver and is sold individually. This replacement part features 1 defrost timer.
Installation Instructions
Stephen from Warrington, PA
Fridge got warm and freezer coils were frosted
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re ... Read more moved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
Plugged back in and everying is working great!
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This refrigerator defrost timer is a key component in the automatic defrost system, designed to regulate the intervals at which the appliance enters its defrost cycle. It temporarily shuts off the compressor and activates the defrost heater to melt accumulated frost on the evaporator coils, ensuring efficient cooling and preventing ice buildup. After a preset duration—typically every six hours—it restores normal operation by restarting the compressor. This OEM part is manufactured for Frigidaire and is compatible with a wide range of models from Electrolux, White Westinghouse, Tappan, and Kenmore. Installation involves accessing the control housing, disconnecting the old timer, and securing the new one using standard connectors.
This refrigerator defrost timer is a key component in the automatic defrost system, designed to regulate the intervals at which the appliance enters its defrost cycle. It temporarily shuts off the compressor and activates the defrost heater to melt accumulated frost on the evaporator coils, ensuring efficient cooling and preventing ice buildup. After a preset duration—typically every six hours—it restores normal operation by restarting the compressor. This OEM part is manufactured for Frigidaire and is compatible with a wide range of models from Electrolux, White Westinghouse, Tappan, and Kenmore. Installation involves accessing the control housing, disconnecting the old timer, and securing the new one using standard connectors.
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
Installation Instructions
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o
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pens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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This defrost timer is designed for use in your refrigerator. The defrost timer acts as a clock, that switches the refrigerator from the freezing cycle to the defrost cycle and back. If your refrigerator is running non-stop, or is not running at all, you may need to check and replace the defrost timer. This is a 6 hour and 21 minute defrost timer. This part is made of white plastic, with 4 metal prongs protruding from one end. To complete this repair, you will need to access the old defrost timer which is located inside the console on the roof of your refrigerator. To complete this repair, you will need a 1/4-inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, and a Phillips screwdriver. Be sure to disconnect power from your refrigerator before you begin this repair.
This defrost timer is designed for use in your refrigerator. The defrost timer acts as a clock, that switches the refrigerator from the freezing cycle to the defrost cycle and back. If your refrigerator is running non-stop, or is not running at all, you may need to check and replace the defrost timer. This is a 6 hour and 21 minute defrost timer. This part is made of white plastic, with 4 metal prongs protruding from one end. To complete this repair, you will need to access the old defrost timer which is located inside the console on the roof of your refrigerator. To complete this repair, you will need a 1/4-inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, and a Phillips screwdriver. Be sure to disconnect power from your refrigerator before you begin this repair.
What this part fixes:
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
Installation Instructions
Dennis from BEAUMONT, TX
Freezer Freezing up and blocking the vent for refrigerator, not cooling the fridge.
Went pretty straight forward, except the heat shrink tubing was about 2 sizes too big. Would not shrink small enough to seal the connections. Even with a heat gun it would not shrink small enough. OH, another think is when I plugged the fridge back in the defrost timer was in defrost mode. Took me a few minutes to figure that out and use
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a screwdriver to turn the timer back to the on position. Other than that, install was pretty simple.
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MAKE THIS REPAIR A GUARANTEED WIN
OVER 2 MILLION PARTS TO ENSURE VICTORY
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you notice that your fridge is too warm, the fridge is running for a long time or is leaking, it could be due to the defrost timer becoming inactive. The defrost timer is found underneath the light cover (may need to remove lightbulb) and will need to be removed along with the air inlet assembly and housing.
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you notice that your fridge is too warm, the fridge is running for a long time or is leaking, it could be due to the defrost timer becoming inactive. The defrost timer is found underneath the light cover (may need to remove lightbulb) and will need to be removed along with the air inlet assembly and housing.
Installation Instructions
Wanda from Cabins, WV
refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize.
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My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
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This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Installation Instructions
Bonnie from CARLSBAD, CA
Deep Freezer leaked, warmed up to about 60 degrees, door no longer pulled shut when closing
You should know that the freezer leaked for months before it warmed up. It's not connected to water (no ice maker in it) so I figured it was ice build-up that was melting and causing the leak.
When it warmed up I called a repairman who said the start relay was bad and estimated $500 to replace it. I disputed this because the c ... Read more ompressor was running. I asked him if perhaps the freon was low, he said if it was, we should dispose of the freezer.
I even asked him to take $300 to replace that relay, but he refused so I paid him his service fee and sent him on his way. Turns out even $300 would've been a ripoff.
I watched several videos on diagnosing warm freezers. I tried contacting many online parts stores but PartsSelect.com was the only one that answered and had kind and patient techs willing to explain things to me.
I tested the evaporator fan motor, which turned out to be bad. The tech recommended other parts that might also be bad so I put them all into the shopping cart, including the overload (by accident, not sure how I got that one as I did not need the overload for this repair). I did buy the relay in case the unethical repair guy was right about the relay being bad.
The parts arrived quickly and the diagrams/video supplied by this site were very helpful. I used my cell phone to take photos of everything before I started so I could put all wires back in their proper places, etc.
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR:
Very easy to replace. I removed the cover panel as instructed, and removed the screws holding the motor with my nutdriver. The blades slid off the motor nice and easy--I did not have to fiddle with the clip at all, just slid them off and on.
There is a third hole in the white bracket that worried me because I didn't see a corresponding third hole in the photo online of that part. But when it arrived, it did have the hole so I was able to plug it in just fine.
I removed the middle wire from the old part's white bracket NOT by pulling on it. I removed it by gently pushing an allen wrench into the hole and then the wire came out easily so it could be plugged into the new part.
Very easy overall to replace the Evaporator Fan Motor.
BI-METAL DEFROST THERMOSTAT:
Another very easy to replace part! Find the old part, unplug it and plug in the new part! Once the panel is removed to access the fan, you can hold up the new part and use it to find the old one. In this model it was easy to find.
DEFROST TIMER:
This was on the back of my freezer, in the cavity that holds the compressor. Once I located it, it was a simple thing to replace it. I used the nut driver to unscrew the screws and unplugged it, plugged in the new one, put the screws back... super simple.
START RELAY:
This was the scariest for me but turned out to be simple. I had to lie on the ground to get close enough and position a bright light so I could see everything clearly. (I'm a 60-year-old gal with poor eyesight and creaky bones!) The cell phone came in handy here to take up close photos of the assembly.
Another difficult step: grabbing the relay to pull it out. It was difficult to gain purchase on it but I finally figured it out.
A third difficulty (only for me) was pulling off the terminals without damaging the wire. I followed the video closely here, grabbed the terminals and not the wire and worked at them to pull them off. They were on very tight, difficult but I did get them off.
Installing the new relay was easy. Attach the terminals (cell phone photo of original part helped me ensure I got the right wires to the right place) and plug it in (cell phone helped again so I could line up the pins before pushing).
The old part rattled just barely -- so perhaps it WAS on its way out, but certainly not worth a $500 repair the repairman wanted! And as you will see, it was not the only thing not working in our this freezer.
The freezer started right up -- compressor humming nicely -- but after 24 hours it was only 60 degrees. At that point I called PartsSelect.com and they spent a long time with me on the phone. We decided it might be leaking freon but they don't have parts or info on adding freon.
I researched "how to add freon to your freezer" and found a great video by Vegas Romaniac on youtube.
Turns out you need to make sure your gauge has a DVA-1 adapter; the link in the youtube video sends you to an old-style gauge, so if you buy that one you'll need to go to Walmart for a DVA-1 adapter ($3).
Another issue: the green gasket in that gauge prevented it from seating properly, it took me a very long time before it finally seated and pierced the can...
When it warmed up I called a repairman who said the start relay was bad and estimated $500 to replace it. I disputed this because the c ... Read more ompressor was running. I asked him if perhaps the freon was low, he said if it was, we should dispose of the freezer.
I even asked him to take $300 to replace that relay, but he refused so I paid him his service fee and sent him on his way. Turns out even $300 would've been a ripoff.
I watched several videos on diagnosing warm freezers. I tried contacting many online parts stores but PartsSelect.com was the only one that answered and had kind and patient techs willing to explain things to me.
I tested the evaporator fan motor, which turned out to be bad. The tech recommended other parts that might also be bad so I put them all into the shopping cart, including the overload (by accident, not sure how I got that one as I did not need the overload for this repair). I did buy the relay in case the unethical repair guy was right about the relay being bad.
The parts arrived quickly and the diagrams/video supplied by this site were very helpful. I used my cell phone to take photos of everything before I started so I could put all wires back in their proper places, etc.
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR:
Very easy to replace. I removed the cover panel as instructed, and removed the screws holding the motor with my nutdriver. The blades slid off the motor nice and easy--I did not have to fiddle with the clip at all, just slid them off and on.
There is a third hole in the white bracket that worried me because I didn't see a corresponding third hole in the photo online of that part. But when it arrived, it did have the hole so I was able to plug it in just fine.
I removed the middle wire from the old part's white bracket NOT by pulling on it. I removed it by gently pushing an allen wrench into the hole and then the wire came out easily so it could be plugged into the new part.
Very easy overall to replace the Evaporator Fan Motor.
BI-METAL DEFROST THERMOSTAT:
Another very easy to replace part! Find the old part, unplug it and plug in the new part! Once the panel is removed to access the fan, you can hold up the new part and use it to find the old one. In this model it was easy to find.
DEFROST TIMER:
This was on the back of my freezer, in the cavity that holds the compressor. Once I located it, it was a simple thing to replace it. I used the nut driver to unscrew the screws and unplugged it, plugged in the new one, put the screws back... super simple.
START RELAY:
This was the scariest for me but turned out to be simple. I had to lie on the ground to get close enough and position a bright light so I could see everything clearly. (I'm a 60-year-old gal with poor eyesight and creaky bones!) The cell phone came in handy here to take up close photos of the assembly.
Another difficult step: grabbing the relay to pull it out. It was difficult to gain purchase on it but I finally figured it out.
A third difficulty (only for me) was pulling off the terminals without damaging the wire. I followed the video closely here, grabbed the terminals and not the wire and worked at them to pull them off. They were on very tight, difficult but I did get them off.
Installing the new relay was easy. Attach the terminals (cell phone photo of original part helped me ensure I got the right wires to the right place) and plug it in (cell phone helped again so I could line up the pins before pushing).
The old part rattled just barely -- so perhaps it WAS on its way out, but certainly not worth a $500 repair the repairman wanted! And as you will see, it was not the only thing not working in our this freezer.
The freezer started right up -- compressor humming nicely -- but after 24 hours it was only 60 degrees. At that point I called PartsSelect.com and they spent a long time with me on the phone. We decided it might be leaking freon but they don't have parts or info on adding freon.
I researched "how to add freon to your freezer" and found a great video by Vegas Romaniac on youtube.
Turns out you need to make sure your gauge has a DVA-1 adapter; the link in the youtube video sends you to an old-style gauge, so if you buy that one you'll need to go to Walmart for a DVA-1 adapter ($3).
Another issue: the green gasket in that gauge prevented it from seating properly, it took me a very long time before it finally seated and pierced the can...
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The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
The timer will shut off the cooling system of the refrigerator and the defrost heater will turn on.
Installation Instructions
Peter from Eden, UT
Fridge and freezer didn't cool enough
I diagnosed the problem via the internet. Diagrams helped a lot. Coils were frozen over. Thawed them out overnight. Manually advanced timer and the defrost heater was operable. The defrost timer wasn't "turning" on it's own. I turned the fridge back on while I awaited the part. It worked fine for the time I had to wait. (over two
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weeks since I had delayed ordering the part) New timer arrived as promised. Undid 4 hex head (1/4") screws. Unplugged 4 prong connection. Plugged in new timer and replaced the 4 screws. Frigde works great.
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This defrost timer will cycle for twenty-one minutes after every ten hours of run time.
The defrost timer acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
This defrost timer will cycle for twenty-one minutes after every ten hours of run time.
The defrost timer acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
What this part fixes:
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
Installation Instructions
Dale from Ligonier, IN
Maytag Refrigerator - fridge compartment was not cooling and the freezer compartment seemed to be cooling okay
Maytag Refrigerator (new 1991): First I unplugged the refrigerator from the electrical receptacle. I then removed the front grille and used a nutdriver to remove two small screws and unplugged the defective defrost timer. I then plugged the new defrost timer in, reinstalled the two small screws, reinstalled the front grille, and finally,
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plugged the refrigerator into the electrical receptacle. This took less than 15 minutes to complete. Please note, you may need to manually defrost the refrigerator, at least 8-10 hours, in order for the new defrost timer to have a fresh start of a defrosted fridge.
Frigidaire Freezer (new 2005) - Replacing the Drain Pan: First I unplugged the freezer from the electrical receptacle. I then removed the four bolts holding the compressor in place using a socket and ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the compressor out of its compartment to where I could easily get to the broken drain pan. I removed the broken drain pan and installed the new drain pan. Carefully pushing the compressor back into its compartment, reinstalling the four bolts. Plugged the freezer back into the electrical receptacle. Please use caution as the compressor may be hot and being careful not to kink any of the lines connected to the compressor. This project of installing a new drain pan took me about an hour to complete. Good Luck
Frigidaire Freezer (new 2005) - Replacing the Drain Pan: First I unplugged the freezer from the electrical receptacle. I then removed the four bolts holding the compressor in place using a socket and ratchet. Then I carefully pulled the compressor out of its compartment to where I could easily get to the broken drain pan. I removed the broken drain pan and installed the new drain pan. Carefully pushing the compressor back into its compartment, reinstalling the four bolts. Plugged the freezer back into the electrical receptacle. Please use caution as the compressor may be hot and being careful not to kink any of the lines connected to the compressor. This project of installing a new drain pan took me about an hour to complete. Good Luck
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This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
Installation Instructions
Richard from West Alton, MO
Freezer was still simi-cold but refrigerator was not.
Called a friend that lead me down the right path so i did a search for the part's and found this site. The trouble shooting that outher's had done was the same as mine, I descovered that the coil's in the freezer had frozen up complety. They are located behind a plasic cover in the freezer area, it had frozen up due to the Defrost heater
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element being defective, when i took it out it was black and burnt looking,It is located at the bottom edge of the coils,2 bolt's and a plug in on each side. That is probally the only part i needed but i went ahead and replaced the sensor and timer also.The sensor wires in the freezer( located on the very top of the coils) had to be cut and the new ones spliced in, only 2 wires and easy access. I also put shrink wrap on the splices to protect them from mosisture. The timer was located in the fridge area by the temp. control knobs. 2 small bolts and a plug in was all on it. It's been 5 day's and so far so good. The worst part was defrosting the frozen coils. This was done with the wife's hair dryer and a couple towel's to soak up the water. Don't just let the water go down the drain hole because the tray that catches it will not hold all the water from the frozen coil's. Just a reminder, don't forget to unplug the unit when working on it. Hope this help's and was very easy install, Cost about $125 in part's and a couple hours of labor(did a good cleaning while it was eampty for the repair) Good luck.
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