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bake element had burned and started to arc
Removed oven door and racks. removed fan cover to expose elements two retaining screws.removed retaining screws and pulled burned element forward to expose electrical connectors.unconnected slide on connectors from old element and pushed leads onto new element and re-assembled.
Simply slide stove away from wall and unplug. Remove the center back plate on the rear of the stove, Open oven slide new element into rear of oven, snap into place. Return to rear of oven. slide wire connectors onto oven element prongs, replace center cover, make sure oven is turned off, plug stove back in and slide back into place. Open oven and turn on. allow element to heat up. Once the element has heated and the new burns off. Turn off the oven and replace the racks, This entire process took maybe 5 minutes.
it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank
slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.
I simply removed the 2 anchor screws in front of the stove and wrote down the wiring order on the instillation diagram, removed the old burner, removed the two studs, made sure they were installed on the right numbers place them in the new burner, wired the new burner, placed the springs respectively. Placed them in the correct holes in the frame to be sure that the burner was aligned properly. Put the washers on the studs and replaced the frame screws, lowered the cook top and returned the screws to lock the cook top in place.
Clock had FFF and oven/broiler did not turn on at all, only cooktop
Took the upper back covering off, disconnected the clock control. The only problem is the replacement didn't have the same connections so I was able to pull up the replacement number of wb27x10311 and asked for a diagram which told me exactly where to plug each of the red, white, blue and yellow wires, what a relief! To my amazement I fixed my "old" stove for less than $160, if I had called GE to service it, I'm sure I would have been looking at a $400 bill. This was the way to go, Thank You!
After needlessly replacing the Thermo-sensor and Bake element I was able to determine that, while I had proper voltage to the appliance I did not have power to bake element when bake knob was turned on. The broil element worked properly. I hesitated purchasing the Electronic Clock Control because there was nothing wrong with the oven clock and it was an expensive part. I switched out the control unit and was delighted to see the bake element heat up immediately. It was simple to replace and the instructions that came with it were adequate - just some differences in the color of wires. Thank you Part Select.com!
I took a chance and guessed that the problem was the element, as opposed to a thermostat or other part that may have failed. (Oven was made in the 70's) I entered the data for this old oven on the PartSelect.com website and it came up with a part for me to order. When I received the replacement element, I noticed that it was not "exactly" the same shape as the old part, but the dimensions were correct and it fit into the space on the bottom of the oven without any problems. The dimensions of the connectors were pretty close to exactly the same as the old element, and the screw holes in the mounting plate lined up perfectly with the corresponding threaded holes in the back wall of the oven - it took me less than 15 minutes to install the part and the oven appears to be working perfectly again.
I thought it would be a simple matter of removing the inside glass (4 screws) and replacing the gasket, but it turns out that on this model I had to start on the outside, remove the drawer, then remove the front door cover, then undo a screw which held the inside two-tier glass in place, THEN I could remove the four screws and the interior panel which holds the gasket in place. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you choose to use masking tape to hold the exterior door cover in place while removing/replacing the many screws which hold it on. WHILE REPLACING THE INTERIOR COVER WHICH HOLDS THE GASKET IN PLACE, YOU MUST PERIODICALLY STRETCH IT HERE AND THERE TO GET THE "SNAKE" TO EXTEND THE ENTIRE WAY AND TO SEAL TIGHTLY.
Shut off power to the range in breaker box used a .025 inch socket to remove two mounting screws pulled forward slowly to disconnect the two wires.Checked for nicks or cracks in wire installed new element restored power done .
It took longer to get the new element out of the box than it did to install it. I removed the two screws with a 1/4" nutdriver, pulled the element out roughly three inches, unplugged the connectors and discarded the old element. I did the reverse to install the new element.
R had ight front control made loud noise when contacts opened.
This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.
