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MWX2 Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MWX2
121 - 135 of 324

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only cold water would go into machine. No hot water works.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Lexington, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed 2 screws on the top control panel to tilt the panel back. Then "popped" the hinges. I then removed 2 screws on the rear panel, to "pick up" the panel out of its locking position. Then the rear panel was loose. I removed the 2 srews holding the water inlet valve to the panel, removed the hose and placed the new water inlet va lve in position. Assembled everything back to gether. After a $16.00 part was replaced, the washing machine worked like a brand new one with very high water flow. It was a very simple task to do on your own.
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Broken belt
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from TEMPLE, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)
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no/very little hot water coming into the washer
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Valdis A. from Louisville, KY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Took the back cover off 6 screws, took the inlet valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, the vater valve off the mounting plate 2 screws, and disconnected the inlet valve clamp from the inlet hose to the washer. In reassembling reversed the process. Best part; G.E. was going to charge me $59.00 for the valve, and I got it for $16.10 ship ped in one day.
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Replace Drain Hose
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from BIRMINGHAM, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Ordered this part to replace a drain hose that had been cut short on the washer. Installation was straight-forward. Removed the two front screws to access the cabinet. Locate the drain hose and remove with a pair of pliers. Install the new part and attach the clamp with the pliers just like removal. Took about 15 minutes.
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Cracked pump; leaking water
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Jackson, WY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Pump replacement quite simple - most difficult part of job was figuring out how to disassemble outer washing machine panels. Pump required disconnecting 2 hoses and an electrical connection.
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The water would not completely drain and go to spin cycle and noisy while trying to drain.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from DEFIANCE, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I ordered pump so I would have it on hand. I didn’t want the washer in pieces waiting on parts. New pump came in 2-3 days with standard shipping. Found a video online for this model. Removed top. Removed control panel and set on front edge of frame. Removed door seal spring. Removed front panel and separated seal from drum. Pump located a t bottom left. Removed pump screws. Got a shallow pan from kitchen to catch water. Removed hoses and trap. Not much water. Took trap boot and pump to sink for cleaning and found a bra wire had made it past the screen and was rubbing on pump impeller. That was the noise. Cleaned and reinstalled old pump. Has been running for 2 months without a problem. Easily returned the new pump! Highly recommend this company and site. Will come here for my repair jobs first. Hope I remembered all the steps correctly since it has been over 2 months.
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My appliance repair man suggested that he install newhoses to the inlet valve and in doing so stripped the threads on the hopt water inlet valave which 2 days later resulted in a serious leak in the washing machine. It was obviously necessary to replace the inlet valve.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Valerie from lakeville, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
My appliance repair man replaced the inlet hoses into the washing machine and in doing so damaged the threads on the hot water inlet which resulted in a seriuous leak. I removed the 4 screws that held the damaged water inet valve (#PS270305)in place (inlet valcve and solenoid), removed the 4 wires to the solenid (noting the order in which they wree attached) and simply reattached the electrical wiring and screwed the inlet valve in place with the 4 screws that I had taken off to remove the old part.
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drive belt old and stretched
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Sault Ste. Marie, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplugged machine. pried up with large regular screwdiver on top washer lid. removed two phillips screws bottom of front panel, had to use rubber mallet to drive front panel down to remove as was rusty and old. removed old belt using screwdriver. put new belt under tub pulley and put belt on small pulleys. kept moving tub and springs by pushing on tub. Took several tries to get new belt to go on the large tub pulley but finally did it. I used the instructions you gave for replacing broken drive belt and it worked. replaced front panel and two phillips screws, put top back on and away it went.
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broken control knob
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrew from Nantucket, MA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
repair was quick and part came quickly. I was very satisfied.
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inlet valve threads worn
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from Marshfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I disconnected two wires on back of inlet valve,then I removed the plastic hose connected to left side of valve. Removed old valve and replaced it with the new one.Attached hot/cold hoses and turned on washing machine to check for leaks.
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Washer pumps and drains but does not agitate or spin.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DENNIS from EATON RAPIDS, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.

Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.

Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.

I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.
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transmission wore out
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Flemington, WV
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
After struggeling the most with lifting out the inner drum and then the wash drum. I realized when the job was complete a better way. 1. Take the top off the washer. 2. take the front off the washer. Then disconnect all wires and hoses from assembly One small hose on the tub and the pump hose at the bottom. 3. at the bottom of the overall assembly there are 3 braces holding the tub assembly with 2 springs on each brace. Go under and remove the springs and then lift the whole assembly out into the middle of the floor. 4. remove the top cap off of the agitator. 5. remove the agitator. 6. if you are lucky and the bolts are not seized in the block that holds the shaft remove the small steel block from the bell and remove the bell. 6. Slide the inner tub up and off the shaft and again if all goes well the outer wash tub should slip up off the shaft as well. 7. remove the drive belt from the motor and transmission.
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orginal pump was starting to make excessive noise.checked out to find a lot of side play in the pump shaft.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from kidder, MO
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
ordered the new pump,its a lot more heavy duty than the orginal.had to change the mounting bracket somewhat. the new pump mounted bythe bottom of the pump housing and theold pump mounted by the side of the pump housing. so, wnere the curve was in the mount, I used the bench grinder to cut the curve out to make a flat surface for the new p ump to rest in ,also drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the mount for the bolts to mount the pump.
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2 problems washer would not stop filling and cold water barely came out.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from Auburndale, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
simply removed top of washer(where the lid is) and removed old parts and installed new ones. It was just a matter of disconnecting the hoses and electrical connections. Make sure to unplug washer first.
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The valve wouldn't let the cold water in.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dawn from East Leroy, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I changed the Water Inlet Valve in less than 15 minutes. The valve fit exactly, and the water hoses fit right on. I turned on the water and the washer filled without hesitation. The cost was 15.00, this beat the 62.00 price I was given by GE for the part alone.
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All Instructions for the MWX2
121 - 135 of 324