MWX2 Washer - Instructions

carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p ... Read more ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.

1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the ag ... Read more itator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.

Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received i ... Read more t two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.

uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and ... Read more fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.

1) Unplugged washer and disconnected the hot and cold hoses.
2) removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the front panel then removed front panel, you need enough clearance by the floor, this is tricky because you have to lean washer back and push down on the front panel.
3) removed the agitator from the washer
4) lif ... Read more ted top of washer and leaned back against the wall and removed the splash tub cover one clip at a time with a flat screw driver.
5) removed the trunion, this is difficult and will take some time due to the corrosion from many years of use use a hammer (3Lb short handle) and tap one side then the other. You will need to rock it back and forth awhile.
6) lift the basket out of splash tub
7) I removed the hose for water level and removed the 3 bolts that hold the splash tub to the three base mounts (support arms).
8) remove the splash tub
9)change the plastic washer that is between the splash tub and the transmission in the bottom of the splash tub
10) change the bearing(metal sleeve) on the bottom of splash tub and lightly grease w/ a thin film of teflon grease
11) install splash tub and install the 3 bolts along w/ the water level tube
12) install the larger seal (w/ spring in it) and push into the splash tub firmly
13) use some tub and faucet silicone grease on the smaller seal because you don't want to damage this main seal, install the main seal (sits on top of the larger one that's in the tub already) be careful when getting to flat part of the shaft when installing ( spin around the shaft as you pass this point) it will keep the seal from coming out.
14) install trunion (sits down on top of the seal) you will feel the tension of the spring when bolting the trunion back into place.
15) install basket and bolt it to the trunion (I installed a new filter on the bottom of the basket and required some special glue, ask for "3M" GMGA600 adhesive.
16) installed splash tub cover, agitator and front cover.
Washer works great and is quieter than it was new.

After reading the possiblilities of problem, I determined that the drain pump was not working; therefore I ordered a new one. When I opened the washer to replace the part, I found out that the pump was working but the filter was stuffed with pieces of rubber that came out from a rug I washed. Once all the stuff was removed, the washer wor ... Read more ked just fine. PartSelect was very gracious to accept the returned with not questions asked!! Thanks partSelect.

First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and remo ... Read more ved the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.

First, remove the 2 screws that hold the lower front cover in place, remove the cover and disconnect the plug and the ground wires from the pump. Next attach the washing machine drain hose to a wet vac, since even if the machine is empty, there will still be water in the outer tub and the pump. Suck the whole thing dry, remove the 2 bol ... Read more ts that hold the cover onto the pump, use a pliers to remove the 2 hose clamps, remove the hoses (no mess because of the vacuum). Remove the 2 screws that hold the pump to the base of the washer and remove the pump. Save the mounting bracket from the bottom of the pump. Orient the outlet on the new pump to match your old one if needed, instructions to do this are included with the new pump. Install the mounting bracket onto the new pump. Mount the pump to the washing machine base, reconnect the hoses, the cover and the wiring. Put the drain hose back into your drain. Run the machine, check for function and leaks. If all is well, replace the lower cover. Don't forget to tell your wife that the job was a whole lot harder than it looked.

The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would ... Read more need to pay a repair person to do!

My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off a ... Read more nd putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!

Disconnect water and electricity.
Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose.
Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access.
Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove.
Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins.
Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardw ... Read more are store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers).
Reconnect water and electricity.
Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.

The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new sp ... Read more ring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.

Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!

## WHAT I WISH I'D KNOWN BEFORE I STARTED ##
1. Remove the four hoses first.
2. remove the three screws holding the pump to the structure above BEFORE loosening the flex clamp.
3. with the pump free of the hoses and rest of the washer, then remove the flex coupling clamp from the pump end only; do not remove the flex coupli ... Read more ng from the motor.
4. remove the old pump.
5. attach the new pump to the top of the flex coupling BEFORE attaching the pump to the upper part of the washer. This is the most difficult step, to get the flex coupling on the pump in a secure fashion using the clamp. It's much easier to do if the pump is not yet connected to the rest of the washer.
6. attach the pump to the washer with the three mounting screws.
7. re-attach the hoses.
8. run the washer and check for leaks.

I made the mistake of taking the flex coupling off the motor then tried to put the flex coupling on the motor and the pump when the pump was already attached to the washer. Major grief :>(

Good luck, it's well worth the effort.

Unplugged machine.
Turned off water supply.

Removed front panel.
Pushed in on belt tensioner, removed old belt, replaced with new belt.

Used pry bar to lift the base assembly high enough off the snubber to remove it. Partially propped it with 2x4 wood scraps.

Used bent clothes hangar to remove ol ... Read more d snubber ring, to protect my hands.

Replaced snubber, arrow pointing up.
Carefully lowered base assembly.

Replaced front panel.
Turned water back on, plugged back in, washing machine no longer 'walks'.

Remember to check the washer against a level if you moved the machine.