MW10 - Instructions

After removing the rear cover I removed all the hose connections as this gives a better access to the mounting screws. Next disconnect the drive coupling. Remove the 2 inner mount screws frist then remove the 3rd screw.
Reversing this procedure makes mounting the new pump easy. Also I went to GE's web site and downloaded the parts ... Read more sheet that also gave me the number for the proper pump.
E. Renico

This was not exactly the right part for my machine, well, it was the right part, it was just a different design ro something. It didn't quite sit in the same place as the original, and so, the little hose is crimped a little, which makes the washer really loud. It's ok because it works now without babysitting. It was not difficult to inst ... Read more all, just took off the top panel with the star drive bit thingy, and took the old part off, installed the new part (forced it into place) and got it running.

Jenn-Air Microwave would not turn on. Clock worked , light worked, timer worked and would count down .I changed' Part #0813140 Switch, Micr} cost $8.99 plus shippingNow it works Thank You for good advise

turned washer on side to get at the bolts holding motor. loosen bolts. remove flexable basket for water pump or one end of it. slide motor to loosen belt. remove and replace belt. use large screwdriver on motor to hold tension on belt while tightening nuts. hardest part was getting clamps back on the rubber basket.

I noticed the belt was off, first, then pulled it back on. Washer worked, but very noisily, as belt continued slippage. I bought new belt after reading how to repair, then when it arrived, I read how someone installed it without having to remove bolt, etc. I tried and succeeded. It agitates just fine, but stalls when spinning. It's ... Read more like the belt is too tight, now. i am gonna try rotating the rotating parts to see if that will help loosen it.

First I read through the customer comments, reviews, questions, etc. at Parts Select, which is always a good bet. Then I put "samsung microwave door switch replacement" into youtube and watched some videos. They don't even have to be for Samsung. From what I can tell, many of the appliance companies use the same design and the same jun ... Read more k parts, so watching a GE video is almost the same for example. Watch some videos to familiarize yourself with the steps. There are maybe six to disassemble and install the new part. I replaced all three switches. They are not expensive and to replace 3 is only 5% more work than to replace just one; you have to take the microwave apart in either case. UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE FROM THE WALL. Start taking it apart. I use my phone to take a picture of any thing I remove, unscrew or disconnect, especially wires, BEFORE I disconnect them. Thee pictures serve as a reference when I go to reconnect and reassemble. If I am uncertain then I check the picture. Good luck!

We have a Jenn-Air microwave and oven combination that is installed as a "stack" in a cabinet. The light bulb had burned out, and I read some of the posts on the partselect.com site about how others performed this replacement; ours was a bit different.
To replace the microwave light bulb, we had to remove the entire microwave and ... Read more oven stack from the cabinet. There were four anchor screws on the sides (two on each side) of the microwave that were driven in perpendicular to the face of the microwave. There were four more screws that were on the sides of the oven that could be accessed once the oven door was open.
With those anchor screws removed, we had to carefully pull the entire microwave / oven stack from the cabinet to reach the top cover of the microwave. We used an old wooden crate to hold the front of the oven and left the back of the oven resting in the cabinet enclosure. This gave enough room to access the screws on the top cover of the microwave, without having to lift the entire stack down to the floor.
At this point, I could unplug the microwave power cord, which was plugged in to a socket built into the top of the conventional oven part of the stack.
The top cover of the microwave was attached with regular Phillips head screws, so those were easy to remove. Several other instructions indicated I would need a torx or star drive screwdriver, but I did not.
Once the screws were removed from the top cover of the microwave, the cover can slide rearward to be removed. However, there are two metal strips that run vertically along the sides of the microwave and at the top of the microwave, these bends over at a right angle over the top of the microwave. The top cover has tabs that sticks up vertically from the cover, so that the bent strips prevents the cover tabs from passing as the cover is slid backwards. The vertical strips have several screws connecting it to the body of the microwave. On one of the vertical strips, I removed the two of these screws closest to the top of the microwave. Then, I gently pushed a wood chisel, because of the bevel angle, between the vertical metal strip and the microwave body. This moved the bent-over portion of the vertical strip far enough away from the microwave that the tab on the top cover cleared the strip, and I could then remove the top cover.
With the top cover removed, I could see the old light bulb. It is attached with a push-in electrical connection that was easily pulled off. One Phillips head screwdriver held the old bulb in place towards the rear of the microwave. Towards the front of the microwave, a small plastic post holds the front of the bulb. I removed the screw and pulled out the old bulb.
The new bulb fits easily into the same plastic post and screw connection. However, the new bulbs connector prongs are bent at a 90 degree angle to the original bulb. Instead of sticking straight out from the microwave, which was how the old bulb was configured, the new bulb prongs pointed to the right side of the microwave (as viewed from the front). Fortunately, the wiring harness in the microwave that connects to the light bulb had a zip tie that was loose enough to get enough slack for the push-in connector to reach the new bulb's prongs.
After the bulb was in, I reversed the steps described above, making sure to leave the chisel in place until the top cover had been secured back in place. Once the chisel was removed from the vertical metal strip, the bent portion again would prevent easy removal of the top cover. I made sure to plug the microwave power cord back into the outlet on the conventional oven, then we slid the entire unit back into the cabinet enclosure, and I put the anchor screws back to hold the stack into the cabinet.
Three of us worked on this - mostly to help pull the stack out of the cabinet and to help steady it while the front was resting on the wood crate. This is not a single-person job. It was not terribly difficult, but the number of steps is very tedious. I found a helpful YouTube video "How to uninstall/install a Jenn-Air JMC8127DD/JMC8130DD Microwave Oven" posted by Ali The Handy Man. Being able to see that the microwave and oven stack was connected by a "bridge" (as Ali calls it) was a major help in tackling this.
After this, we suspect that Jenn-Air must have not wanted any repairs to their appliances. As I said above, this repair to replace a light bulb seemed unnecessarily tedious.

The high voltage tired was shorted. I replaced it with a new one, but that did not solve the problem.

You can test the high voltage tired with a voltmeter and a 9 V battery. Search Search for it on YouTube.

You can also test the high voltage capacitor, the high-voltage transformer, and the magnetron with a multi met ... Read more er. Search for the procedures on YouTube.

I tested all these high-voltage components with a low-voltage multi meter, and they all checked out OK (after replacing the diode). However the microwave still did not heat food.

When working on a microwave it is important to unplug it and also discharge the high voltage capacitor. The capacitor has a 10 megaohm resister to automatically discharge itself, but it may have failed – – so discharge it manually.

In the end I ordered a new microwave.

I removed the outer cover and exposed the inner workings. I watched a video on partselect.com to show how to remove and replace the Diode. I followed the instructions and it was very easy to replace.

Unfortunately, the diode was only part of the issue. I ended up replacing the High Voltage capacitor and Magnetron also. Those w ... Read more ere a little more complicated but still easy to do.

Now the Microwave works just like new! Cost me less than $100 for all parts.

I was pleased with how quickly my part arrived and that it was still in stock as the washer was quite old. I had to remove screws on back panel to get at part. only a couple of screws held the part in place and 4 wires were connected. The hardest part was pulling the part out of black hose that connected water into machine. It had be ... Read more en on so long it wouldn't pull out and part of it broke off in hose. It took some fussing to get it out and then the new part connected easily.I took one wire off at a time and put on new part as to not get them mixed up.

First I removed the front panel using the screw driver. I removed the old belt which was in the bottom of the washer. I placed the new belt on the motor and adjusted the pullies. I replaced the front panel. The washer spins much better now than it had for the past year.

I unhooked the fill lines from the washer. I unscrewed the cover plate of the water inlet valve, and pulled the valve out enough to disconnect the fill hose. I unscrewed the band clamp on the fill hose and disconnected the hose.

I took the replacement part and one by one moved the four wires from the old part to the new part t ... Read more o make sure I connected each to the proper terminal. I then reattached the fill hose and clamped it. (This was the only "hard" part since the hose has little length to work with and is inside the machine.)

After attaching the all the internal connections. I took the coverplate from the old valve and screwed it to the new valve. I screwed it all back in place. Before reconnecting the fill lines from the wall, I replaced the rubber washers in the hose (a good practice to do when re-connecting these hoses). Connected the fill lines, and voila--working washer!

Very easy and intuitive repair.

Tilted the washing machine, removed 4 hoses from the pump and the drive connector;
removed 3 nuts that hold the pump; install
the new pump and put back the hoses; to be safe, I unplugged the electric

I mistakenly thought I had to remove the microwave to get to the back, not so. I would have had access to what I needed to unscrew; but I have to admit the hassle of taking it down and putting it back equals having to work on it attached to the shelf-your call on how you do this. I unscrewed the front top to remove the vent piece that ... Read more is across the top front of the microwave. This will reveal the control panel screw. (While you have the vent removed you might want to clean the vent and the exposed filter.) carefully lift and pull out control panel. I unplugged a piece as the wires were tied tight. It will not completely detach, so carefully tip it back from exposed insides. The fuse is not clear but white with silver ends so look in upper right for it. I popped it out and replaced it. Replugged the wired part to cover and carefully fit tabs in and slide down to secre. Replace screw, replace vent piece and secure screws on top of microwave. I plugged it in to test before putting it back above my stove.

remove outer cover of microwave, (special recessed star bit required) change bulb, unplug and remove 1 phillips screw.