KUDC21 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

In diagnosing the problem, I pretty much took the entire door apart before observing that the door switch actuator was broken off ... I went online, logged onto PartSelect, found the appropriate diagram (which on their site is quite easy to do) and ordered the part online.

It arrived far quicker than I would ever have imagined ... Read more possible and I had it installed within 2 minutes of the time I opened the package.

MrsS is VERY happy now that her dishwasher is 'back on the road'

It was a very small and inexpensive part, but PartSelect treated us as well as if we'd spent hundreds of dollars ... we could not be happier.

Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.

Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.

I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resista ... Read more nce of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.

There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.

Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.

I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)

I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)

The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.

Aha!

I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.

Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.

This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..

If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.

I turned off the CB for the DW and the water supply to the DW.
I disconnected the electrical connections on the water inlet valve. I then removed the panels from the lower part of the dishwasher, I pulled the water inlet line off and then the water return line off.

I replaced the valve. The only problem I ran into is t ... Read more hat the inlet portion required a new brass "ell" - the one that was on the old piece would have of course been ok, however, it was solidly in place in the old water inlet valve

the only other issue, and one that would probably be commonly encountered - when I first went to turn off the water supply to the DW, the valve leaked - I was fortunate to be able to take the valve apart, clean it and put it back in place

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

First I removed the screws holding the broken mounting brakets in place on both the left and right side and replaced them with the new brackets. It was relatively easy and now the 15 year old dishwasher in addition to still working well is held securely so that it doesn't lean forward when both upper and lower trays are extended.

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin ... Read more that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

So I decided to stick in some CLR to see if it would clean it up. Well it got considerably worse. So ordered the new faucet adapter, threaded adapter and the two washers, due to not knowing what i would need. It came like unbelievably fast considering it was Christmas time. Unscrewed the old one from the faucet, screwed on the new one. ... Read more hooked up the dishwasher, watched it for a bit for any leaks at the connection, and it worked great! I seem to have more water pressure too coming from the sink faucet. Thank you so much for the quickness in sending out my order! -- Scott

PartSelect web page helped me determine the problem and the solution. It took me longer to read the fix-it directions than it did to fix the dishwasher. Just push the part in the hole and twist. When my wife got home she was so impressed that it was fixed and we didn't spend a huge amount to have a repairman come to our house. I got so mu ... Read more ch prasie that I didn't tell her how easy it was to do the repairs

New ones fit perfectly, and looks beautiful!

First I removed two lower panels at bottom of dishwasher beneath the loading door using nut drivers. There had been a problem in that the dishwasher was not filling with water during any of the cycle. I closed the water supply. I removed the old water inlet valve completely using pliars to open the hose clamp at the outlet anbd remove th ... Read more e hose. Then used a I/2 "" wrench to remove the copper inlet line. Then I used a screw driver to remove the inlet valve mounting screws. I put the valve in my garage vise to remove the pipe fitting. Everything was reusable on the new valve. I just cracked opened the water supply to make sure water pressure was available to the valve inlet side and reassembled everything. Started the dishwasher and problem solved.

Fairly simple to replace the valve. Water input side was a rubber hose that required pliers to squeeze the ring seal and slide it down the hose. Copper pipe on the output side was attached with a 3/8 compression fitting.

I did need to transfer a brass elbow from the old part to the new one.