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J797D2 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the J797D2
16 - 30 of 118

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no burnt wire
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bernard from N CHARLESTON, SC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replace part an wires
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Needed To Replace Drip Bowl
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DIANA from TINTON FALLS, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I just replaced them.
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Burner rings and drip pans stained
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tommy from Hydro, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
Lifted burner element to remove pressure on ring and drip bowl. Removed old parts and replaced in reverse order. This not intended to sound sexist, but my wife who is not particularily mechanically inclined performed the task on her own.
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broiler element circuit broke
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Lafayette, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other sid e. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.
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Broiler element stopped heating
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Fort Worth, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.
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broiler element was broken
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Milli from AURORA, CO
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I c ould but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!
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Broiler unit burned out
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Charlotte, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the bo x. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!
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replacing rusted drip pans on a 30 year old stove.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dorothy-Anne from SHREWSBURY, MA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just lifted the electric components Remove drip plans and trim rings and replaced with new drip pans and trim. Your company was incredible in there delivery of the parts..One day. You made my husbands very happy.
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Original cooking element was starting to fail. It was bending and changing form and would have broken over a short period of time.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from NAPERVILLE, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had purchased a partselect heating element for my larger lower oven previously so I knew what to expect on replacement.

I shut off the power to the stove from the electrical box. Next I removed both the cooking racks from the oven. Then the side removable panels and bottom as this is a P7 removeable panel oven. This gave ne easy access to the nuts/screws holding the element in place. Once the screws were removed I pulled out the element and disconnected the leads. I replaced the new piece reversing the process.
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the items ordered replaced the worn out ones.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from Morristown, N.J., NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
the replacement items fit really good. It was a matter of remove and replace,
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None
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DR L DENO from WASHINGTON, DC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed the burned-out element with appropriate tools; installed new element with same tools.
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Replace door gasket
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DORIS from SARASOTA, FL
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Gasket sent did not match the profile of the original. Only after trimming off two long edges of the gasket did it come close to matching the original. I would not recommend using this replacement gasket for this oven model. 1-Remove door. 2-Loosen the 2 oven box attachment nuts on the back of the oven. (loosen only, about 3/8") 3-slide the oven box toward the front of the oven. 4-remove old gasket, and insert new. 5-Retighten 2 oven box attachment nuts. 6-Reinstall door. Took especially long because of incorrect gasket. Deep well socket required to loosen oven box attachment nuts. Recommend two people to do, one in back, for attachment nut and one in front to keep gasket in place while tightning nuts.
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When moving the range, the 220 wire popped off the terminal and arced melting the plastic terminal
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from ST PETERSBURG, FL
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 2 20 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.
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Lower bake element
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeanne from ARCHER, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Wire connection from the oven was too small and I had to make it larger with a flat head screwdriver and pliers. I used a head flashlight for I could see better. I would suggest not having a glass of wine before starting the repair. It would have only taken me 15 Minutes instead of 30.
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Burner would not heat
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Madera, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from th eir corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.
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All Instructions for the J797D2
16 - 30 of 118