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CVE3401B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

All Instructions for the CVE3401B
46 - 60 of 121

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front burner would not heat
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack A from Biloxi, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.
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replaced a broken dual burner switch
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • chris from ann arbor, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
IMPORTANT WIRE CONNECTIONS: The manufacturer instructions describing where each wire connects is woefully incomplete. There are 6 or 7 wires to connect and only 2 are explained in the instructions. I took several photos of the original switch showing where each of the wires was connected before disconnecting and installing the new swit ch. If I hadn't taken the photos I would have been completely lost on where each wire connected.
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Dual surface switch replacement
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles from SAN ANTONIO, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My cook top has the red wire piggybacked along all the cook top switches. It was easy enough to reroute the red wire coming from the dual surface burner to pin 4 i believe on the new switch. Follow the previous thread and look at the instruction sheet online for this switch
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Burner out
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from IONE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
I didn't repair anything because you sent me the wrong part! I submitted a claim to return it and it's been a week, and I have heard nothing from you. Horrible customer service, I'll be calling today.
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Small burner on glass top stove stopped working.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • REX from VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don 't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.
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indicator ring worked intermittently, no heat
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Louisville, NE
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
raising the cook top on to 2x2s, one on each end, allowed me to remove the 9 sheet metal screws that keep the glass top fastened to the box containing all of the heating elements and controls. After removing the control knobs and the glass top, everything was clearly visible. Removing the four screws that hold the control box frame in pla ce allowed me to turn the switches upside down and photograph the placement of all of the wires on the pins. I then transferred the wires from the old switch to what I thought were the corresponding pins on the new switch(the replacement switch has more pins, and they are not located in exactly the same spots as the old switch). When I turned the power back on, the switch turned the burners on, I had heat but the indicator lights didn't work. I turned the breakers back off and rewired according to a previous commentors wiring directions(his model was not exactly the same as mine), the indicators worked but I was back to no heat. I called my son, who has his own commercial electric company,and he looked at my photos from before, the diagram that came with the new switch, and it took him about 15 minutes to reconnect the pins to different wires and when we turned the power back on---both indicators and heating elements worked. It was the dual switch and double indicator that made it more complex to figure out. Nice to have very smart kids.
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wright frount dual burner did not work
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Freddie L from HOLT, MO
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
number to get the correct part was problem. item number was a whirlpool number. all other soureces i could not get the part. part selec t was able to come up the whirlpool item number. when i received the correct part it did not take long repair the problem. thank you for all your help.
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Burners stayed hot and couldn’t be adjusted
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • roger from LITTLETON, NC
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed Igor’s instructions and it was very easy and straightforward. New switches work great.
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Broken knob fan
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Linnaea from MOBERLY, MO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Item looked exactly as part to be replaced. Knob lifted out, used pliers to remove rest of Knob assembly then lined up the Dr shapes on Knob and cook top and snapped into place. Took all of 30 seconds to do. Knob looks exactly the same as the Knob it replaced.
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Twp switch knobs were broken and could no longer function
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from SAN ANTONIO, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
We received the new knobs, they were a perfect fit. Installed in less than a minute! Looks like new.
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Grease filter broke
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Carlos from CHANTILLY, VA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered a replacement grease filter.
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Cooktop knob broke when turning it on.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Chester from MCCOY, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Aligned the new knob with the cooktop socket and it went on easliy and has worked fine ever since. So thrilled we were able to replace the knob without having to buy an entire new cooktop. The new knob looks different but it is black and so is the cooktop and new cooktops now have different looking controls anyway. Thank you. You were a life saver!
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Fan knob was broke
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from WINNABOW, NC
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Used needle nose pliers to remove the remaining broken park from the D connector. Used a little pressure to install the new part on the connector.
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faulty dual surface burner swich
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • olof from san diego, DE
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I followed your excellent service instructions.
This was the reason I purchased the part from you,
even though other websites had the same part for considerably less
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Right rear burner under glass no longer would heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Maple Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
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All Instructions for the CVE3401B
46 - 60 of 121