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ALW4 Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ALW4
16 - 30 of 180

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Washer leaked water on the floor. Seal nut assembly rubber and o-ring were worn out.
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Houston, TX
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.
Other Parts Used:
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A loud grinding sound from the bottom of the machine
15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Beavercreek, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
As the other posting said, it appears our problem was due to constant overloading, as an inspection of the machine with the bottom service panel removed clearly revealed all three milkstool legs broken away from the round center piece. My teen-agers are now aware that I am somewhat displeased about this.
My first action was to order the repair manual. In retrospect, it was only marginally useful as a job aid, but was essential in verifying ID of the part and understanding details of how the machine works. I started by following the manual which said to remove the agitator. The agitiator didn't want to be removed, even after repeated attempts and applications of varying amounts of both physical and vocal persuasion. So, I reconsidered what I really needed to be doing, and dislodging the agitator (and subsequently all of the spline seals) really wasn't necessary. I just needed to get to and replace the crushed milkstool (and leave everything with a seal alone!).
So, Phase 1 - I removed the front panels, and tilted up the top. I then disconnected the power cable to the motor and the inlet/outlet hoses to the pump (more on my haste in this step in a moment...). The wiring harness is held in place on the machine back and milkstool by plastic retainers that release when compressed. I then disconnected the green ground wire, the panel that holds the blue water inlet valve assembly, the black hose on top of the tub and the clear air pressure hose (just pulls straight out of the tub side connector). This allowed the top to be removed and set aside. I then pulled the drain hose through and pulled the plate that holds it in place from the back, then removed all the screws that hold the cabinet to the base, then set the cabinet aside. Next, I disconnected all 7 springs from the base to the tub, and the tub was free. I pulled the tub from the base (not too heavy) and inverted it to get at the motor/pump/milkstool.
Phase 2 - gently removed the idler spring and removed the belt from the pulley. Pulled 10 1/2" self-tapping screws that hold the milkstool to the tub and the motor to the milkstool (these can be discarded as you get new ones with the milkstool). Now pulled 6 screws that hold the brake pads in place, and pulled the brakepads. The manual says to replace the pads whenever pulled, but these didn't look terribly worn, and work just fine after reassembly. The pulley then came off easily, and then subsequently so did the milkstool (with integrated bearing). Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly, and all seemed logical enough until I got to reattaching the hoses to the pump. The manual does not make it clear which one goes where, and I forgot to take a picture of that part of the machine before dismantling. Long story short, I put them on backwards, and you'll probably not be surprised to hear the machine didn't work as anticipated when we turned it on! (wouldn't spin, wouldn't pump out the water and made a nice puddle in the laundry room). Once we ladled out all of the water from the tub and reversed the hoses, everything worked fine. So - words to the wise (1) mark hoses, wires, etc with tape, grease pencil, whatever works for you BEFORE disassembly and (2) take close-up digital pics as you progress.
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The agitator moved in slow motion at regular setting
13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alvin W. from Reidsville, NC
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Wrench set
took off the front cover.
disconected the wiring from moter.
removed the motor.
replaced the brake pads one at a time used a flat screw driver to spred the plates apart.

The Plasatic Helix Drive Lup
took bolt at the botom of shaft off
this released the Helix drive lug.
took old lug off and inatalle d new
replaced bolt and washer.
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Loud noise/Washer tub doesn't spin
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Lyndonville, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
First remove the bottom front access door. The helix drive nut and pulley were both chewed up. I pushed the pulley up into the brake assembly to make sure it released properly. Mine released and the drum spun freely (I had my 8 yr old assistant turn the drum first). The helix nut turned with the drum so I assumed the transmission was good to go. Once my drive nut and pulley came in (two days), [UNPLUG WASHER AND DISCONNECT WATER] I took the top front cover off and lifted the top up and back on it's hinges. Next I disconnected the motor wiring harness, the bleach tube, the fill hose, the six drum springs, and the drain hose from the pump. Pulled the drum out of the shell and flipped it upside down. I took off the helix drive nut and removed the 8 bolts that hold the "milk stool and bearing assembly" and motor to the drum, also 2 screws that go into the plastic reservoir. I raised the milk stool enough to get the pulley out. (Belt was good) Put in new pulley and pushed the milk stool back down. (I was careful to keep the bearing on the shaft splines). Put the belt back on the pulley and idler. Put in all the bolts and put back together in reverse order. I recommend starting with the back drum springs, that's how I did it and it was easy. About an hour. Good luck.
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Machine would start to spin and shut off.
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrea from Hauppauge, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I removed the front cover to gain access to the motor. I saw that the belt was starting to get chewed up so I removed it. While looking at the schematic on Parts.com I noticed the Idler Pulley Wheel was much larger then one currently on the machine. I ordered that also in case I needed it. I needed it. Once I replaced the belt and th e pulley the machine ran better then ever. Originally I thought I just needed the belt but thanks to Parts.com I realized I needed a little more. Thanks.
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Idler pully seperated from bushing
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Raytown, MO
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
first I unplugged the electrical plug then I removed the lower covet by taking out the 5/16 screws. I then took out the 5/16 screws that hold the top part of the front cover and removed it.
I then worked the belt off the aggitator pully and removed the hoses from the pump. I then used a 1/2 in soclet on long extension th remove the four bolts that hold the motor and pump assembly. I then worked the assembly out of the cabinate and using a long #20 torx bit I removed the pumfrom the housing. I removed the belt, then I removed the housing off the motor and replaced the Idler bracket with the idler pully. I then re-assembled it in the reverse of taking it apart. Works great with the new idler and belt.
David Hilton
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Squeak and slight burning smell during spin cycle.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Swanton, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.