ALW4 Amana Washer - Instructions
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Washer was leaking on floor
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Walter from Cairo, GA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.
I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the wash ... Read more er tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.
The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.
All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.
After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.
I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the wash ... Read more er tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.
The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.
All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.
After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.
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Washer doesn't drain water during spin cycle
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Artur from Burlington, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Thanks for very quick delivery and detailed instructions found on this site. I followed the step-by-step instructions and everything went as planned with one exception, I installed the V-belt in a wrong way after replacing the pump. Next time, I will mark or remember the way belt sits between the motor and the pump.
I found a small ... Read more sock in the pump. Pump itself was still good (I think), but I installed new one along with new belt (just in case).
I found a small ... Read more sock in the pump. Pump itself was still good (I think), but I installed new one along with new belt (just in case).
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Leaking water inlet hoses.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Helen from NASHUA, NH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
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Drain hose sprung a leak
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Burton from Sutton, MA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
simple as removing front panel from washer held on by two screws and the hose was right their. Took a few minutes to disconnect it from the pump and pull it out through the rear, then feed the replacement in and reverse the process. Piece of cake. Thank you.
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brake pad was broken and spinning around making noise
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alan from Shepherd, MI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
this machine seems good to work on because almost every thing is done from the front without pulling it away from the wall. Removed front lower cover by removing two screws. There are three brake pads with two bolts each. applied silicone grease to each pad and put it back togather
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Tub off center & decided to replace idler while at it.
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marion from Gainesville, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged washer and disconnected water lines and drain hose from wall. Removed the two Screws at bottom front panel and tilted lower portion out at bottom and removed panel. Removed screw on each side under to top panel, removed three phillps screws on top control box to tilt the top box forward and unplugged the wiring harness,unscrewed
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the ground wire, pulled off water level hose, disconnected switch power wire connections. Slid control forward and removed. Found broken spring and anchor slit rusted thru where spring attached to base. Cut a 1/2" strip of metal from a 2x4 metal strap and attached to bottom side of base with screws, set washer uprite and tilted top panel to attach springs to tub. Inserted spring at bottom and pulled spring into slit on side of tub with a heavy gauge bent wire, bent like the top of springs being replaced. Reconnecd wiring to to panel box & Hose, srewed in place at top, reattached screws uhder top front left and right and inserted front panel at top and attached two front screws at bottom. Reattached hoses and plugged in unit. checked for spin, o.k.
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One of the two springs in the front left of the machine broke
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Forked River, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I tipped the tub towards the area where the springs were and connected them. They broke because that particulary area seemed to get moisture and they rusted. Truthfully, although the machine still works, its last days are just down the road.
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Washing machine was vibrating excessively.
5 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Canton, GA
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had to take the entire tub assembly from the machine to replace the milkstool which had been crushed by the weight of over-loading the washer. It took about 2 & 1/2 hours to complete the job, but it was well worth the effort to save the expense of replacing the appliance. Part Select provide the right part as promised and saved me a l
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ot of money. Thank you for your service.
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belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melody from Silverton, CO
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, rol
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ler, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.
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Hung up on rinse cycle, would not drain.
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Austin, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed three screws to gain access to the timer. It has a label which describes how to remove the contol knob but does not address the removal of the timer knob skirt. I tried prying it off but was unsuccessful. This caused the removal of the timer to be very difficult. After the skirt came off the timer was easy to remove. The ti
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mer is held in place by one screw. The new timer went in real easily.
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Pump worn out - Leaking
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Portsmouth, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful i
... Read more
n getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!
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Had to pull the motor to change the belt
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Nesconset, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged washer from power source. Dissconnect the water supply. Take off lower panel. Undo big spring. Remove 4 bolts that hold the motor. Unplug the motor. remove motor and belt. While on the bench I regreased the Idler pulley. then reverse the procedure to reassemble
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no cold or cool water only hot
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Carlos, MN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
It was so simple I don't think I even need to explain. Couple of screws in and out and done. Saved big money by doing the repair myself...I was surprised how quickly the part arrived. I was able to access from the back of my machine. Did not have to remove the top. Very easy thanks
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Washer would not agitate, but would spin.
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Timothy from Bowling Green, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove the lower access door in the front of the machine. Then I tipped the washer back against the wall to access everything. The pads are alittle hard to push in between the washer pulley disc. So I first pushed in an old broken brake pad off to the side, then was able to push in the new pads. The rear pad is the hardest and I had to r
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elease some of the front tub springs and remove the pump hose for access. Overall it went pretty smooth. Thanks for your help!Tim
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Leaking pump
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Goldsboro, NC
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out e
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xposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump
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