ALW4 Amana Washer - Instructions
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Upper Bearing sounded like jet taking off during spin cycle, burnt belt in half
4 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tracy from martinez, GA
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Unplug and disconnect Power, Drain and h20 connections. Removed front panel, disconnected internal electricrical connections and capicitor from washer. Remove 11 (I think) screws connecting outer cover to base. Remove pull drain hose through the outer cover and hold the end lower that the washer to drain the excess h20. Remove the hoses f
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rom the pump and outer tub. Remove outer cover from base exposing the guts. Grab the bottom of the agitator and pull up pretty hard. Agitator will pop off, watch your head. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the Inner tub to the hub. Remove seal from top of transmission spline. You will need a 38mm deep well socket to remove the nut from the top of the transmission. I used a socket and a impact wrench to remove the nut. Remove the teflon seal that is below the nut. You will need a puller and/or grinder to remove the hub from the transmission spline. My puller broke, so I ended up using an air grinder to cut a couple of pizza slices out of the hub. Then I used an air hammer to break the slices off of the hub. Once it is cut the cast aluminum is quite brittle. Pull what remains of the hub off of the transmission spline. Remove the bolts that connect the transmission housing to the outer tub. Remove the 3 bolts from the underside of the outer tub that connect the outer tub to the upper bearing. using a set of vice grips, grab the top of the springs that connect the outer tub to the base and carefully remove them one by one.
The outer tub should slide right off. Remove the bearing from the transmission. Supplies that you will most likely need are the 3m800 sealant, when you get this you will only need a little around the bottom of the lip where the new seal attaches to the bottom of the outer tub. You will also want to get the Seal tool which will ensure that the seal that goes around the top of the transmission spline is seated properly. Assemble in reverse order but keep in mind to attach tub bolts prior to attaching the springs. Also keep in mind that both maytag and amana make a washer with the same model number LWA80AW. Check to see which one you are ordering for. The kits are different. Don't ask me how I know. Just make sure you get the correct kit the first time, it will save you a whole lot of head scratching.
The outer tub should slide right off. Remove the bearing from the transmission. Supplies that you will most likely need are the 3m800 sealant, when you get this you will only need a little around the bottom of the lip where the new seal attaches to the bottom of the outer tub. You will also want to get the Seal tool which will ensure that the seal that goes around the top of the transmission spline is seated properly. Assemble in reverse order but keep in mind to attach tub bolts prior to attaching the springs. Also keep in mind that both maytag and amana make a washer with the same model number LWA80AW. Check to see which one you are ordering for. The kits are different. Don't ask me how I know. Just make sure you get the correct kit the first time, it will save you a whole lot of head scratching.
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loud noise on spin cycle
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from Eden, UT
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
I had previously done a partial tear down on the machine to see if I thought I could do the repair. The dealer try's to scare you with warnings about special tools etc. Looked OK and after reading other comments on this site, I thought I would try. The only comment that I would add to what has already said is that you should have the r
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ecommended sealer or an equivalent sealer. I used weatherstrip adhesive that I had on hand. Hope that it holds up! Like it says in the directions, the seal will lift up if there is too much sealer under the lip of the seal. Just hold down the seal with a weight until the adhesive sets up and then it will stay. I've fixed cars for 30 years and this was an easy repair comparable to replacing wheel bearings.
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Cold water flow very slow.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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William from NEW DURHAM, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed and replaced mixing valve. Shut off hot & cold water supply to machine. Pull machine electric plug. Access back of machine. Remove water supply to machine. (Pliers) Be sure to keep some paper towels handy to pick up residual water. Remove screw that holds mixing valve mounting plate to machine. Pull plate away from machine. Undo
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hot and cold elect. connectors to valve. Remove water supply to valve. (Black hose-screwdriver.) Remove screw holding valve to mount plate. (Nut driver.) Install new valve onto mount plate. Reverse process used to remove valve. Test by turning on machine.
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Leak from seal on pump
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from Courtland, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from
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PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.
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A small river running out the bottom front.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry from Brentwood, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
I used my three jaw slide hammer to remove the pump from the motor. How are other people getting it off? Pump made alot of rubbing noise after installation. I tried pushing it on farther and also prying it back off a little with no luck. It's really cheap looking and I was scared of breaking it. The thing wasn't leaking so I called it goo
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d....
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screw loss in Drive Bell
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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james from Phoenix, AZ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit to
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o much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.
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The hose on the washer been leaking and needed to be replaced.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary Lou from NEW ULM, MN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
After receiving the new hose we replaced the hose and tested the washer by running a rinse cycle. The new hose fixed the problem.
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Cracked hose leaking
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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John from BAINBRIDGE IS, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Hardest thing was moving washing machine away from wall. Two screws on panel. One screw for hose.
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"banging" when in spin cycle.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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david from brunswick, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
checked for unbalanced load. still banging. removed lower front panel by removing 2 screws. then removed front top panel- 2 more screws. turned unit on spin cycle to see what was going on. this is dangerous as many moving parts are exposed, so keep everything clear. banging was the tensioner slamming back and forth. unpluged washer from o
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utlet and felt along the belt to find part of the 'v' shaped balt had come part, leaving a gap in the "v". ordered part.when i got the part, i removed 4 larger bolts that held the motor, pully, and pump. i unplugged the wires for the motor, and removed the belt from the bsket side pulley assembly by slipping it off and under the shaft. i removed the torx screws that held the pump on the motor and removed the belt. PAY ATTENTION to how the belt was in between the pully and pump assembly or you will have to remove and redo it. reassemble the pump over the belt, pully, motor, and put the belt on the drum side pully before bolting it to the washing machine. it is fairly heavy and tight, so you might need help. this was not hard and you do not need to take apart the washer except for the two front panels and the motor assembly. i just pulled the unit away from the wall and tipped it back to access the inside. take your time and pay attention, and make sure it is not plugged into the wall and you should be fine.
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Water Inlet valve wouldn't work for cold water
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DAVID from ORLAND PARK, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.
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unbalanced tub. 2 of the tub suspension springs had rusted out and broken.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Aaron from PORT ORCHARD, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Remove front cover. Install springs. The springs are very tight. You might need another person to push and rotate the tub while you pull on the spring to get it installed in the holes. If you need to replace the springs that are in the back of the unit, you will need to disassemble more of the washer.
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Tub leaking and bearing very noisy
3 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Don from Andover, NH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
After totally disassembling the washer ; the parts arrived, wrong parts! called and resolved issue, recvd parts and proceeded without special tools, PB Blaster solvent is awesome!!! I removed the seal & bearing with little effort with a hammer and screw driver. Greased new seal and installed effortless. Waher back in operation in less tha
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n 2 hours of receiving the parts.
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hotwater was coming out slow to fill the was tub of machine
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Pembroke Pines, FL
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed both hot and cold fill lines and front of washer panel. removed screw holding mix valve plate t the back of the washer . Unpluged connections to mix valve and replaced valve. ( note removing the top of the washer is needed and can only be done by first removing the front by sliding a thin screw driver between the top and front pan
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el to release the clips at the ends.)
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Could not get adequate amount of cold water
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Virginia Beach, VA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Replaced the mixing value using the kit purchased from PartSelect. The instructions with the kit plus the installation tips found on their WEB Page were extremely helpful. Everything went as predicted except I had to cut and insert a new piece of wire on the white wire between the hot and cold electrical connections. I used two crimp c
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onnectors to lengthen the wire. This was a very simple job for a 73 year old man like me. Thank you for the tips and quick delivery of the mixer value kit.
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Clanging of dryer when rolling
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Bel Air, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.
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