AGR4 Amana Range - Instructions

I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that ... Read more done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.

I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of ... Read more the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !

igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put o ... Read more ven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!

After I found the web site I looked at the possible solutions for my problem. My igniter was glowing so I was not sure that would fix the problem but several places indicated the igniter would fix the problem and after I replaced it the oven work great.

Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go' ... Read more s from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.

First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.

1. Lift the Oven Door off of the 2 stove hinge mechanisms.
2. Remove the screws holding the bottom Glass Support Bracket.
3. Slide the Support Bracket out from under the oven door side bracket tangs and off the cosmetic front glass.
4. Slide the glass out of the top bracket and thoroughly clean both sides of the glass with ... Read more glass cleaner and wipe with paper towels.
5. Slide the new Glass Support Bracket onto the bottom of the glass, slide the glass back into the oven door top bracket, and slide the new bracket under the oven door side bracket tangs.
6. Reinstall the screws, and then slide the oven door back onto the 2 hinge mechanisms on the stove.

Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in ... Read more their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!

Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.

First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.

I first matched the symptom (very long preheat time/gas odor) with the most likely problem (faulty oven gas igniter). I then wrote the model # and Googled gas oven repair and got to your website. I then located the faulty part within about 5 clicks and proceeded to order the exact part within another 5 or so clicks. I received my order f ... Read more rom PartSelest in 2 days and had the oven working with the new igniter in about 10 minutes....Then it dawned on me---"Hey, I should be a Maytag Repair Man."
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)

I removed the oven door first, then pulled the unit away from the wall being careful of the floors. I unplugged the oven, and turned off the gas feed. I worked on the thermostat first. I followed the wiring from the inside of the unit to the back panel, and disconnected the cable. Two philips head screws held in place - swapped it out for ... Read more the new one - and there you go. Some insulation might also poke out when your snaking the wired through, so just tuck that back in as best you can.
Then I moved onto the igniter. I followed the wiring, and disconnected it at the back panel. The igniter was held in place with two hex bolts ( I can't remember the exact sizing since I just kept going down in sizes until it fit snugly on the bolt head). The metal plate they bolt into was warped, but with a little persuasion from some pliers it was easy to bend for better access to the bolts. Be careful if you are doing this since the bracket is attached to the burner tube and too much torque is always bad for hollow metal parts. Attach and wire up the new igniter, still being careful to replace any insulation that creeps out.
Plug the unit back in.
Turn on the gas feed.
Push it back into place.
Replace the oven door - and there you go.
I had also purchased an oven thermometer that hangs from the wire racking. I had the oven on at 350 for 30 minutes and the temperature never really swayed more than 15 degrees. It also heated up substantially faster.

moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. ... Read more Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !