ADE9 Admiral Dryer - Instructions
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Change dryer belt
15 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Bayport, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I opened up the dryer as per the instructions I had received from PartSelect tech support. It was very easy to do. The only unexpected thing was that the original belt had snapped and in doing so the idler pulley was actually laying on the floor of the dryer's bottom. I had to figure out how it went, but that only took a minute and I p
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opped it back into place. I held the drum by hand while pulling the dryer face away so it wouldn't fall and then I slipped the belt over the drum and quickly closed the front up again. I aligned the belt on the spot where the old one had been, pulled it through the idler pulley and over the motor and voila. Done. I closed up the dryer and was on to another "Honey Do" project within 20 minutes.
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dryer would tumble but had no heat
15 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daryl from Pine Island, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
I opened the front panel and removed the heating element from the rear of the dryer by removing the two screws that held it in place, and slid the element out. using a mulitester I checked the High limit Fuse and it was not working.I ordered the part and replaced it. Everything worked great for two days and the dryer stopped heating again
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. My brother asked if I had replaced the thermostat because something burned out the fuse. He was right. I ordered both parts and replaced them. Every thing is working just fine. Save some money and time by replacing both parts at the same time.
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Switch did not turn off dryer when door opened
14 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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paul from madison, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the
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switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.
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Idler wheel was making a screeching noise
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Derry, NH
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker.
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt ... Read more off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!
From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt ... Read more off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!
From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!
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the drum was not turning because a broken belt
14 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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thomas from bloomfield, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I lifted the top of the dryer cabinet, like the hood of a car using a screwdriver to pry it open. I removed the two screws in the upper right corner of the cabinet front. I disconnected the safty switch on the front door. The front of the cabinet can then be removed by lifting up the front off the pins in the base. With the drum expo
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sed you can place the belt on and thread it through the two pulleys on the motor. Consult the diagrams provided on the PartsSelect website for the proper positioning of the belt on the pulleys. After the belt is installed spin the drum by hand one turn to make sure that it is seated properly on the drum and pulleys. Reassemble the dryer in the reverve order.
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The moister sensor broke away from it's two fasteners inside the dryer drum.
14 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Preston, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unscrewed the two fasteners, rerouted one wire using a wire coat hanger, plugged in the new moisture sensor to the two wires and fastened the the sensor in place using the two existing screws.
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broken belt and idler pully
11 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from Haverhill, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench set
Remove front pannel
remove wires to light and switch
remove drum panel
disconnect motor wiring
unscrew motor mount
replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts
remove wires to light and switch
remove drum panel
disconnect motor wiring
unscrew motor mount
replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts
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Maytag Performa squeaking loudly when running.
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Temecula, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
My wife's dryer started squeaking very high pitched, intermittently and then continuously when running. It progressed to a loud shrieking, unbearable throughout the house. Make sure you unplug the dryer. First I replaced the Drum glide and cushion kit. This was easy to do. Pry open the top of the dryer open with a screwdrive or putty kni
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fe. Now reach in and remove the retaining screws holding the front panel against the side panels. After releasing the front panel, let it fall forward about 4 inches and then unplug the two wire connected to the door closed sensor. Now carefully slide the thin belt towards the back of the dryer, it will release eventually as it is pulled off the pulley (dont worry, getting it back on is not that hard). Now you can remove the drum. After removing the drum, there are two tan or bluse plastic drum glides that the fron of the drum rests on. They can be worn out along with the cushion beneath them. Replace them with new one. This actually did NOT fix the problem. I put everything back together and....SQUEAK!! Next I undid everything as before and removed the drum. Now I decided to lubricate the rear rollers. First I used a silicone lubricant that again did not fix the problem. I could not find hi-temp lubricant, so I decided to use Axle grease. Bingo...no more squeak. To lubricate the rollers, remove the retaining clip and pull the wheel off. I put an even thin coat on the post they rest on and the inside hole of the wheel. Replace them and remember to put the retaining clip back on. Now replace the belt onto the metal pulley first, with the threaded side of the belt down towards the drive shaft, it should loop around the drive shaft and then you can pull it around the drum, slowly feedingthe drum farther and pulling the belt back along the drom. The smooth side of the belt should be on top of the drum. Now you have to reach back under the drum on the bottom right corner below the lint trap and pull the belt over the tensioner. Sounds harder than it is. Volia...that should fix it. Its been 3 days of non-stop laundry since the repair and no squeak. Next time I will purchase the replacement roller package, but this worked for now. Good luck.
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No heat from element
12 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Waukesha, WI
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the top cover, unplugged the wires on the element, removed bolt holding the element in place. Replacement took about Fifteen minutes to complete.
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Heating element failure
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melissa from Lawrenceville, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After disconnecting power, I popped the lid open by grabbing it on the front sides. Swinging the lid completely back and out of the way, I disconnected the wires from the thermostat. Removing a few screws, the thermostat and the heating element were removed. Reverse the steps and that's it. Very easy repair and now the dryer is like n
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ew. While opened, I did take advantage and cleaned all of the lint from the exhaust passages.
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Door not remaining closed
12 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cheryl from LAS VEGAS, NV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!
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High pitch rubbing noise from dryer when operating.
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harry from Las Cruces, NM
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
... Read more 2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
... Read more 2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.
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Dryer belt broke- drum would not turn
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from Oakdale, CT
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
This was so much easier than I though it was going to be. Pulled up on the top part of the dryer and folded it over to the back. Removed 2 screws for the front panel and disconnected some wires. Laying down I fed the new belt on and made sure the tensioner was put back into the right spot, because when the belt broke the tensioner spru
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ng to the other end of its travel. Put everything back together. This was made super easy because you guys had the parts and the shipping was super fast. Alot of the local shops in the area didnt even carry the belt or were not helpful..
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Dryer ran, but did not heat up and dry clothes
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Anthom, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Quick note: I saved over thirty dollars using partselect over the actuall Maytag store parts dept and they still had to order the part to be delivered in 4-5 days. First I pryed the top off of clips in front then removed the screws that hold the element into place, removed the therostat bracket held in by one screw and disconnected wire c
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lips (after labeling the wires) and removed the thermostat from bracket by two screws then disconnected the element wires and slid the old element out. Reversed the process to reinstall the new parts.
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dryer temperatures appear too hot at all settings
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Crossville, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
removed lower front panel, two screws on bottom edge. Limit thermostat located on lower portion of vertical panel at rear of dryer. I was able to detach the two wires and removed the two thermostate retention screws with a nut driver. Since I could only operate with one hand, I taped the new thermostat in place lining up the screw holes i
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n order to replace the two hex screws. reattached the two wires and front panel.
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