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ADE9 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ADE9
31 - 45 of 1063

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Drum Not spinning
26 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dann from Claremont, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. Th is allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.
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Dryer would not start. Light for dryer would not burn.
23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Oak Hill, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Turn the power off to the dryer. Pushed the two retaining clips that held the top of the dryer to the dryer sides. One on each side of the front. Table knife works really well to do this. Lift the top of the dryer up all the way. You will see the heating elements in the rear center of the dryer. There will be one screw holding the h eating elements in place. Once you remove the wires from the heating element and remove the screw the heating element will lift out. Remove the heating elements and set down somewhere they will not get damaged. On the side the screw came out of there will be the heat fuse (as Maytag calls it). Remove the retainer by picking straight up on the retainer and the fuse will come out with the retainer. Remove the wires and replace the fuse and reinstall in reverse order.
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Old Dryer Knob Broke
27 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from Keystone Heights, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Wife wanted a new dryer as it was useless without a knob and tired of using plyers to turn it. Went to internet, entered dryer knob, lead me to your site and item within two minutes. Ordered and received in 2 days. No tools necessary, just pushed it into place. Saved the cost of a new dryer.
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Dryer Not Heating
22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Prairieville, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.
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No heat on dry cycle. Thought it might be element.
24 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Battleboro, NC
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Opened top of dryer and found high limit thermostat burned in half. Thermostat is located on top of element. Replacement of thermostat took less than 10 minutes, using phillips head screwdriver.
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Replaced belt while I was in there replacing motor
20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from COMMERCE, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.
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the door on the unit wouldn't stay closed
22 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john c. from north beach, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair
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Other collector broke and was tearing clothing
19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Bloomington, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Opened the top by popping the two fasteners holding it down. Did this with a screw driver. Took two screws out of the front holding collector in place and two screws out holding the front to the two other sides. Put front of dryer down on the floor. Removed old collector and used all other existing material from old collector to fin ish job. Wife could not believe how quick this was. Put back together was a snap too.
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The insert-molded nut stripped from the wheel
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ted from Grayslake, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then remo ved the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.
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Dryer Would Not Shut Off On Its Own
18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • johnny from london, KY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ordered my part from partselect. Com (even easier than installation) unpluged the dryer,removed all knobs from face plate ,removed three phillips head screws across top ,removed two 5/16 head screws from timer( behind cycle knob) tilted back face plate unpluged one wire at atime from old timer placed back on new timer then reverced the p rocess. Problem solved
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dryer was making a thump sound when drying clothes or when it came to a stop
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrea from west reading, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
My husband and I used a screwdriver to pry open the top of the dryer, then unscrewed the two front corners of it from the inside. Next, we disconnected wires attached to front lid, then pulled the big barrel of the dryer away from the rest of it. We put a new drum roller wheel on the left side and greased the inside perimeter of it. Ne xt, we took off the old cushion set, and stuck on the newer set, and greased drum glide as well. Lastly, we took off the "old" belt, and replaced it with the one we purchased from PartSelect. We forgot how the old one came off the pulley, but after much trial and error, we figured it out in a snap! (this is why this project took us longer than we expected)
In conclusion, this company for parts is wonderful and I have been referring them to all of my friends!
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Dryer would not heat.
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Deb from Milford, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I unplugged the dryer and slid it a few inches out from the wall. I slid 2 putty knives in the front top about 3 inches in from the sides. Released the top and raised it up. I used a multimeter to test the hi limit and the element, both were operational. I used a screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. I lowered the panel slightly and disconnected the wires mentally noting the proper placement. With the front panel on the floor, the problem was obvious. I cleaned the lint clog under the lint screen that had caused the issue to begin with.I used a shop vac and cleaned the vent area as well as the front panel. I used a nut driver to remove the 2 screws that held the thermostat in place. The old thermostat fell apart in my hands. I covered the bare exposed wires with electrical tape. ( must have gotten HOT) and reattached the connections to the new thermostat, then replaced the 2 screws that held it secure. I stood the front panel back up and reattached the electrical connections and the 2 screws. I lowered the top and plugged it back into the outlet. I turned it on. It works like new.
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Door Catch was broken
16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Inocencio from Edinburg, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.
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Idler Pully Squelling
21 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Litchfield, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-
Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel.
Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate si ze 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.
Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.
Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!
Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.
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Noisy and Ineffective Drying Cycle due to Damaged Blower Wheel
14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Webster City, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip.
1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.
2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.
3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near th e blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").
4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.
5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.
6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades).
7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.
8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage
9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame
10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.
11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.

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All Instructions for the ADE9
31 - 45 of 1063