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ADE9 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the ADE9
16 - 30 of 1063

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Lint Filter Broke
70 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Cheektowaga, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I slid in the new one
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High noise when switched on. Broken blower wheel.
65 of 71 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from Green Valley, AZ
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lift top off. Removed front door. Removed blower wheel cover. Replaced blower wheel. Cleaned and put back togther. Needed circlip pliers to remove circlip retaining blower wheel.
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Door seal partially torn off. Lint filter worn with holes.
83 of 148 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrea from Santee, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Parts Select made it extremely easy to order parts from their site. Parts came in a timely manner and very reasonable priced. Thanks to Parts Select! Door Seal just needed to be removed and replaced by pushing into little slot openings.
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Dryer would not run
46 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from Rutherfordton, NC
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged unit, lifted the top cover, removed heater element screw, lifted out element, lifted out thermal fuse bracket. Removed wires from thermal fuse, confirmed was open curcuit at room temperature. Attached wires to thermal fuse, inserted fuse into bracket, slid bracket onto clip on side of box that housed the heater element, reinst alled heater elememt, inserted long screw into heater element hole and tightened snugly. Extra to ensure proper air flow: Then removed wires from door switch on fron panel (labeled them), removed 2 screws at top of from panel, tilted and lifted front panel off, removed blower cover, cleaned all duct work from blower to exit of unit, sealed plastic duct that was attached to front panel. It had loose gaskets that allowed air to be drawn in from the sides and not through the duct thus bypassing the drum and heater element. Reattached blower cover, lowered and tilted front cover into place, reattached top 2 corner screws, reattached switch wires, lowered top. Plugged in and tested.
Note the Partselect sales person told me that the LA-1053 kit contained 3 items, however, it only came with the fuse, not the thermostats. Foutunately, only my fuse was shot.
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The original lint flyer was falling apart
42 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Corona, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I ordered a new lint filter from PartSelect. The part was in stock, and it was delivered to my home in approximately 40 hours -- yes, a little more than a day and a half! To do the repair, I removed the old lint filter and put the new one in its place.
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Blower fan cracked
44 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rick from Birch Run, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then repla ce the cover and put front panels back on.
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Brooken lint filter and door seal
70 of 134 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tonja from Green Bay, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It was easy - I had my 12yr old daughter do it. The old door seal was completely removed, then you placed the new seal in the apropriate knoches that are on the door of the dryer. The lint filter just had to be placed in the vent. - Done.
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It wouldn't start
68 of 131 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Amaury from Wake Forest, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element completely out and disconnected the two wires.

From there it was just a matter of installing the new part.

Anybody could do it
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dryer drum wouldn't turn
36 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Peachtree City, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure ou t you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!
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Dryer would squeal when drying clothes
36 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JOHN from CORPUS CHRISTI, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for a ccess. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)
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Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow
31 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Davie, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, e tc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.
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Dryer belt snapped
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • J. from Oakdale, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.
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lint collector plastic holder broken
27 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Wappingers Falls, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.
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Dryer lint screen was broken.
25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Tabernacle, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Searched Maytag.com and other sources, only partselect.com had what I needed. Three days after my purchase, our dryer lint screen was again fully functional.
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Original belt finally gave way.....(15yrs old)
24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Garrett from Racine, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on t he right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.
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All Instructions for the ADE9
16 - 30 of 1063