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ACB6260AW Amana Wall Oven - Instructions

All Instructions for the ACB6260AW
76 - 90 of 176

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oven not heating to set temp. 100 degrees too cold
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Funston, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.
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Oven would not hold temperature, not turn on, and would shut off during use.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Arvada, CO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Phili ps head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.
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No problem installing the sensor
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • tommy from FAYETTEVILLE, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted
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"F3" error message and no oven heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from PAYSON, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
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Digital display went dim
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rudy from Ontario, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off power to oven. Unscrewed panel to expose digital board. Disconnected wire plugs. Removed digital board. Replaced new board and reconnected plugs. It really was that easy...
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F5 fault code kept appearing
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis Rodriguez from Granbury, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
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The lower and upper circuit boards were blown do to a power surge
4 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from Marion, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Shut of power to unit, removed front display panel, located lower circuit board. Removed the one screw holding existing board and installed new board, then swaped wires from damaged to new. re-installed front panel, turned pwoer back on, that was it. The unit is working well.
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Oven not heating to desired temp
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Raymond from Ridgecrest, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cab le adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.
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After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from Winter Haven, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded vi ew of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
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Could not read the electronic display.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timm from Steamboat Springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
We were selling our house and the inspection report noted that the Clock on the double oven didn't work and needed to be repaired. I called the service company to get an estimate. They said $536.00 for replacing the Clock Assembly. I went to your site, saw the schematic, found the part for under $150.00 and ordered it. It took me 10 minut es to install it. Because of you I saved nearly $400.00! Thanks for the quick and reliable service I will reccomend Parts Select.com to everyone!
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The clock was so dim it couldn't be seen anymore.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Amy from Newtown, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
First, I turned the power off to the oven. With a screwdriver, I removed the 3 screws above and the 4 screws below the control panel. Next, gently pulled out the control panel. Three cables attached the electronic clock assembly to the bundle of cables controlling the oven. By pulling on the plastic tabs, I was able to loosen two of th e cables. The other "cable" resembles a ribbon. Squeeze the black tabs on each side of the base of the ribbon connector and pull slightly. The ribbon itself then needs to be bent and gently removed from the connector (you can see two slits in the ribbon that hold it in place). Using my wrench set, I removed the four screws that held the electronic clock assembly to the control panel. Then I attached the new clock assembly, replaced the cables and ribbon cable, snapped in the control panel and secured it into place with the seven screws. It was very easy to do this.
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Display faded to unreadable
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from Los Angeles, CA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Switch off the breaker to the oven. Unscrew the 3 top and 4 bottom screws holding on the control panel cover. Unplug the 2 cables from the clock assembly (which run to the oven). Remove the 4 hex screws which attach the clock assembly to the control panel cover. Unplug the ribbon which attaches the clock assembly to the control panel cover by lifting the black tabs and sliding it out (there is not a plug on the end of the ribbon). Switch out the old clock assembly for the new one, reverse the steps to put it back together.
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Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Glencoe, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
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Replaced Clock/Control LED
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laura from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the metal panel, approx 5 screws, removed LED approx 4 screws and a few electronic connecters. very easy saved $100's vs calling a repair person
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F1-1 and F3-1 error code
2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Lakeville, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...
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All Instructions for the ACB6260AW
76 - 90 of 176