911494 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions
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Oven is off 10 degrees
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ike from LOGANVILLE, GA
- Very Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
... Read more Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c
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onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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26 year old oven, lower element burned into two pieces.
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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marsha from oklahoma city, OK
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.
First, the screw holes whe ... Read more re the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.
Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.
I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.
Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.
It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.
First, the screw holes whe ... Read more re the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.
Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.
I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.
Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.
It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.
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Oven bake element blew out
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Indianapolis, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Shut off the power from the fuse box. Removed p the two screws and plate that attach the element to the wires and back of oven. Installed the replacement element by attaching the wires and reinserting the two screws. Restored power and tested the new element by preheating the oven at 350 degrees and letting it heat for 15 minutes. Works
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like a charm!
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Glenn from Grapevine, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem
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perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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element burned out
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Durham, NC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount
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new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Bolton, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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TOP OVEN BROILER ELEMENT BURNED OUT & BROKE
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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HIDDEN HILLS from TONASKET, WA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT A
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ND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kyle from AURORA, CO
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from
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the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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Replace the heating coil in convection oven
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Victoria from San Jose, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
[1] squirted LiquidWrench on the 4 screws holding the convection fanblade rear cover in place. Used a socket and rachet to remove screws; the loosener really helped after 10+ years.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back ... Read more into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
[2] the broken heating element was easy to remove. The two spade connectors however didn't have much free length;these wires wanted to retreat back ... Read more into the rear oven wall.
[3] So i put a small binder clip from my desk supplies on each spade end, this left the connectors where I could grab them.
[4]I used needle-nose pliers to firmly crimp the the spade connectors onto the new heating element; couldn't have made a firm placement with fingertip pressure alone.
[5] I cleaned the oven door hinge area, oven bulb area, and other hard to reach spots with Simple Green and wipes.
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Microwave wasn't heating up foods
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from LAKE ELSINORE, CA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Per instructions on part select.com website. But needs further repair because still doesn't heat food and pad is partially disabled.
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Baking element quit
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Laguna Niguel, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time.
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Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.
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F2 fault code kept appearing on oven
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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emmett from rocky mount, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed the oven door and shelves. Moved the oven out from wall, so that I could access the rear panel. Unplugged the oven. Removed the five (5) screws holding the rear panel in place and removed the panel. Disconnected the sensor at the connector. Removed the screw holding the sensor in place inside the oven and removed the sensor. Thea
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ded the sensor wire through the rear of the oven wall. Installed the sensor and screw to hold it in place. Snapped the connector from the sensor to the mating connector at the rear of the oven. Installed the rear panel. Installed the five (5) screws to hold the panel. Plugged the oven back in and slide the oven back to the wall. Installed the oven shelves and the oven door.
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