911494 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

First I removed the oven door from the appliance. Then I placed it on a table and removed the screws from around the edges. First I removed an aluminum heat shield. Then I removed the first of three heat shielding glass viewing panels, followed by the second one by removing even more screws. I carefuly laid the parts out in the oreder ... Read more that I remove them along with their screws. Next I removed the large heat shielding aluminum plate that held the first two glass heat shields. Then removed a layer of insulation. Then I was down to the sheel steal plate that holds the gasket. As a precaution I removed the thick pyrex glass heat shilding viewing panel. Lastly the plate that held the door seal was removed. After removing the old gasket, I carefully placed the new oven door gasket in place. After cleaning all the parts that had been removed, I replaced them one at a time in reverse order. Most of my time was spent cleaning. How ever I was especially impressed with the good condition of the oven door after 20 years of approximately every other day oven use. Thanks

removed 4 screws of the back fan cover, then removed the two screws holding the element and disconnected the slip-on electrical wire connections. replaced enement and cover in reverse. this was all done after i cut power at circut breaker duhh

Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, ... Read more don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.

I removed the two mounting screws then pulled the element forward and disconnected the two element screws. I reversed the process to install the new one/ this oven is over 30yrs old.

Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece ... Read more of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove anoth ... Read more er screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

If I'd had the Nut driver, it would have taken 15 -20 minutes or less. Went to Ace Hardware, bought the nut driver for $4.99.

Turn off the power at the box! Turn off the oven as well. Four screws total. Two to hold it in place and two that connect the element to the source.

First I removed the two screws that h ... Read more old the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2 inches. Two more screws connect the element wires. I disconnected the element, threw it away, then connected the new element. I put the element in place, then replaced the screws that connect the power. Finally, I replaced the screws that hold the element in place.

Kimberly, El Cerrito, California

After ordering the proper part with the help of the phone customer service tech, I moved the stove from the wall, unclipped the connector, removed the two screws holding the sensor in place, and removed it. Reversed the above to put it back, and the oven holds perfect temperature.

The first step was to determine whether the problem was with the fan itself or the switch. I did this by opening the back cover and using a Volt meter to verify that the fan was not getting power. (I could have skipped this step.)

Next, I unplugged the range, closed up the back cover and lifted the range hood by removing two he ... Read more x head screws that are just inside and on either side of the top of the opening in the range door. Propping the hood open, I removed the connector leading to the switch, then pushed the switch out the front. Inspection showed that the switch was damaged so I closed up the range and ordered the part from Part Select. Once the part arrived, it was a 15 minute job to unplug the range, lift the top, install the new switch, and close up the unit.

Caution. On starting to install the switch, I failed to unplug the range and my finger brushed one of the hot contacts leading to the switch. Thankfully, I was not injured. Do not repeat my mistake on this issue. Unplug the range even if you're only installing this simple switch.

The most obbious suspect is the upper oven fan. Turned off power circuit breaker. Removed two philip screws at top of control panel and lowered the panel. Using the 3D view of the oven on this web site I located the fan limit switch. Jumpered the limit switch. Turned power on and the fan ran. That proved the switch was defective and ... Read more not the fan. Replaced the limit I purchased from Partselect.com.

Please note* My life career was electrical. I used the schematic that came with the oven to determine that the limit was the only control between one of the 240 volt lines and the fan. Thus I knew it was safe to jump the limit.

If you are in doubt, seek some advice.
Good Luck, Arno

Used the trouble shooting guide and wire diagram found inside the microwave (thanks GE). Found the HV capacitor and diode had shorted. Replaced the capacitor and diode........works like new.

As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two fron ... Read more t supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!

I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.

Removed sensor from back wall of oven by removing 2 screws from flange. I could not pull the wire-nut connections out through the small hole and thought I would have to pull the whole oven out of the wall to acess the connections from the back so instead I clipped the wires close to the old sensor and connected the new sensor with the sma ... Read more ll wire nuts provided, then enlarged the hole in the oven wall, being careful not to pinch the wires then pushed the wire nuts and extra wire back through the hole and put the screws back in the flange.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surpr ... Read more ised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.