9114779 Kenmore - Instructions

remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in

Unscrewed back plate, unplugged old unit, plugged in new unit and ready to go. Don't forget to turn off circuit breaker for oven before starting !

Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had ... Read more the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. ... Read more Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

What I had to do was skip holes,but the more holes I passed over, it did not end up smooth. The gasket is some what wrinkled. If all the holes had lined up it would have taken about 20 seconds. I took it off and on a lot trying to get it smooth. Finally I said well it's just going to be wrinkled.

First unplugged the microwave, took top grill off, took control panel off, took wires off and used color coded tape to make sure they went back in right places, took fuse out and replaced it and put every thing back and it all worked fine and to top it off my wife did it all. So it was pretty easy.

Cut off original termination lugs and re-crimp new lugs to match the replacement element.

I think I could have managed with just the diode but since I had to pull it I decided to replace all related parts per my research. The Magnetron more than likely was fine.

Feedback on site warned me that broiler element is only connected to oven wiring with press-on spade lugs rather than screws. Even with care I managed to 'lose' a wire and had to retrieve it with section of stiff coat-hanger wire bent into a hook. Coming off that experience, I soldered the spade terminals together before reassembly to a ... Read more void a repeat. New element, however, failed to rectify problem. Professional technician found main control unit defective -- a $300 part including installation, but at least GE still has it available. My advice to others in this situation is to remove old element before ordering a replacement, and test with meter to see if it's defective. It may or may not be worth going beyond an element replacement to you.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and ... Read more the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

I shut off power to the microwave, discharged the Hi-voltage capaciator and disconnected the wires to it, then removed the screw and bracket that held the capaciator in place. After removing and replacing the capaciator, reattaching wires and mounting bracket, and replacing the 15amp fuse, the microwave woked fine.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a s ... Read more upport bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

After turning off the electricity, remove the inside rear panel over the fan by removing 4 screws, remove the 2 screws holding in the old heat element. Unscrew the unit from the cabinet by removing 4 wood screws on the front sides. Pull the unit out of the cabinet, I slid it onto 2) 4 x4 pieces of wood to make the reinstall easier. Remov ... Read more e the lower black panel on the outside back, it should have 2 screws and it slides into 2 notches on the back. The back of the element electrical tabs are exposed, pull off the 2 electrical connectors. From the inside carefully pull out the old element, slide the new one in the same space and secure with the 2 screws removed earlier. Attach the 2 electrical clips to the electrical tabs exposed in back and replace the metal cover. Slide the oven back into the cabinet, replace the interior back panel as it was removed and secure the front screws back into the cabinet. Turn on the power and test !