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8635 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 8635
76 - 90 of 1012

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gas dryer would fire, but shut down before getting warm enough to dry clothes
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Ossian, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. The n closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.
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Dryer was squealing while spinning
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dale from YONKERS, NY
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
I followed the directions from a post on parts select that somebody had previously written and my repair worked out perfectly. I removed the top / lid of the dryer by placing a flat head screwdriver underneath both top front corners which was relatively simple. I then removed the entire front door of the dryer by disconnecting the electri c wires for the door which again was a very simple procedure. The tumbler was now exposed at which time I removed the belt (I took a picture of the belt setup for later reassembly) and lifted the tumbler off giving myself easy access to the rear drum rollers and front drum pads. I was able to see that the wheels were worn and definitely the cause of the squealing. I changed out the wheels with replacement wheels which was self explanatory. The front pads were in good shape but I figured that at this point it would serve me well to replace them also which I did. I then reset the new belt (another part that I opted to change while I had the opportunity) on the tumbler with the picture in hand and had no problem. This step did require two people but still not a difficult step. I then put the door and lid back together and now had myself an extremely quiet dryer and a piece of mind that new parts were installed. All in all pretty easy repair.
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No heat
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from La Palma, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!
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Lint screen assembly holder had broken
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Vernon, CT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collect or, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped
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Dryer not Drying
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Manuel from Jurupa Valley, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.
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Dryer would not dry igniter went bad
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mike from lemont, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Easy Job.
First take a flat head screw driver and pop the top placing the screwdriver in between the front panel. The top of the dryer should pop up.
Then just pull it up and over towards the back.

Then unscrew the front panel and move it out of the way leaveing the front door atached to the panel.
Once you ope n the front panel' You can pull the dryer tub out by sliding it out and at the same time you need to push the belt towards the back of the tub until it comes off.
Now you can get to the ingiter by first disamablethe gas
housing first.
Simply by taking one screw off and disconnecting the gas line fitting in front of the dryer. Also disconnect the 3 sets of wires that are connected to that piece and the igniter.
The hole piece will then come out with the igniter attached to it.
Next disconnect the igniter from the piece and replace it with new one.
Then put back togather the same way you took it apart.
Reinstalling the tub.
When it's time to put the tub back in; there's a trick to that.
Put tub in about 3/4 of the way in, put the belt around the tub and let the rest hang to the floor inside dryer.then crawl into the tub and stetch your head and arm through the tub on the back side.
Then you can get to the belt and route it into the motor and the pully that is spring loaded it makes it so much easer that way then trying to run the belt and route it in place from the top. Once that is done now you can adjust belt back to its orignal position then push the tub back in place. Reinstall fron panel and your their.
Total cost 36.00 plus shipping. Thats a lot cheaper then a sevice call and labor
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old latch broke
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Germantown, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I inserted the clip
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no heat was being produced
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • reinaldo from guttenberg, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website
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sometimes it would heat, and other times it did not.
8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Painesville Twp., OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
unplug dryer, lift top, remove 2 screws holding front, lift & swing front to right, use nutdriver to remove two screws holding igniter and other piece attached with same screws, a couple wiggles and out, unplugged igniter, plug in new, reposition new igniter and other piece, replace screws, repositioned front panel, replaced front panel s crews, dropped top back in place, plugged in and wha-la. Heat.
Original Igniter had a hairline crack in it causing it to intermittantly fire. Thanks PartSelect, right part and speedy delivery.
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the glow ignitor would not cycle on
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgio from Oradell, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the g low plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.
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No Heat After 10 Minutes
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • lawrence from GROTON, VT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench set
Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.
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Dryer declined to work- at all
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Beacon, NY
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Web search to determine probable cause then search to find parts. Parts Select came through with the parts and quickly. Opened the top of the dryer (after disconnect from power-hate the smell of burning flesh) and found the parts that had up and died. Removed two screws for first part then one more and a lot of cursing to remove the othe r. Reassembled in reverse order, more cursing the tight space. Dryer back in service, wife happy. Only minor blood loss from sharp parts of machine. Success!
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Dryer would not come on
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Max from Wylie, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Verified power to the dryer with a volt meter. Identified the high limit fuses under the top cover. I used an ohm meter to determine the fuse located on the heater housing assembly was bad. The fuse located at the top (blue label) was not bad but I changed it since a new one was sent in the kit. Reassembled the dryer and it has been w orking ever since. Found the problem on a Monday and ordered the part. Received the part on Wednesday and the problem was solved. Cost me about $31. Would have been triple that if a repairman would have been called. Thanks PartsSelect
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No Power
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Berlin Hts., OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
(Electric) I opened the lid and propped it back on wall. The first piece was located all the way in the back mounted toward you. Easy enough. When it came to the thermal fuse, it was a bit trickier. It's located on the right side of the heating element wall. There is a screw straight on top of the wall. Mine was covered in lint, he nce the thermal repair work:) Take the screw all the way out. The fuse is removed by lifting out the thermal fuse mounting bracket. Nothing special holding it in place. Just put the new one in the same way the old one came out. It was a bit difficult to wiggle the bracket back in, but I kept playing enough and it finally lost the battle. Put the screw back in, taking care to make sure it threads on top of the bracket to secure it against the heater element wall. Worked for me! Thanks everyone.
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Microwave stopped working - would not heat up
11 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • louis from PARRISH, FL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the outer cover and exposed the inner workings. I watched a video on partselect.com to show how to remove and replace the Diode. I followed the instructions and it was very easy to replace.

Unfortunately, the diode was only part of the issue. I ended up replacing the High Voltage capacitor and Magnetron also. Those w ere a little more complicated but still easy to do.

Now the Microwave works just like new! Cost me less than $100 for all parts.
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All Instructions for the 8635
76 - 90 of 1012