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2927 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 2927
16 - 30 of 60

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Agitator was free spinning
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joel from JASPER, MO
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the center cover cap carefully on top of the agitator with a small screw driver. There are 3 (on mine) little slots around the edge of the bottom of the cap where it meets the agitator. Insert the small flat blade screwdriver and gently twist at each one till the cap pops loose and comes off.

There was a 10MM bolt under the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.

The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.

I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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loss burner grate
9 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth Coates from Washington, DC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just set in the new grate and start cooking
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Left rear burner would not ignite
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Perth Amboy, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the burner plates. Lifted up the range top. Removed the knobs. Unbolted the 2 rounded nuts at top of face plate. Removed the 4 screws that hold the face plate in place from behind. Un plugged the old switch and plugged in the new one and bam! The burner worked. Thanks, Super fast shipping! The part was here in less than 36 hours. John, N.J.
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Pulsator stripped out
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from FT WORTH, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair
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two burner ignitors would not function on cook stove
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Warren from Las Cruces, NM
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. ordered two new switches
2. installed switches
3. all ignitors work

Really appreciated the pictures of the parts--made selection very easy.
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Right front gas burner ignitor wouldn't spark
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Lake George, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used the experience of another user posted on your web site. I removed all the gas control knobs and then I followed his instructions about removing the four phillps head screws that held the front plate in place. Once I had it loose and flipped the plate out, it was simple to disconnect the old ignitor switch and install the new one. Simply reversing the process put the range back in proper order. Took a little over 15 minutes to accomplish.
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Water inlet was leaking
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Philip from CHULA VISTA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I noticed that my washer was leaking water into the tub. It was dripping, very slowly, but it was dripping. I noticed first, because it was starting to smell, and I didn’t understand why. Once I noticed that it was dripping, I checked online and noticed that the solenoid water inlet is most likely the problem. I found the part on parts, s elect, and confirmed with my model. The pictures were very close and similar, so I was pretty sure I was getting the cracked part. Once I received the part, it was time to fix it. You just have to turn the water supply off, remove the inlet lines with a adjustable wrench, if necessary, and then get to the washer. Make sure you also unplug the washer. There are only two Phillips head screws to remove to get the vanity cover off of the back. For whatever reason my removal was a little bit difficult for this. There are some plastic clips that hold the front portion on of the vanity plate. These were very tight, and I was afraid I would break them, but eventually they came loose with gentle upward pulling. Once this was off, it was super easy to identify the part that needed replacement. There are two hose clamps that you just need a pair of pliers to squeeze in slide off the hose. Then you remove three additional Phillips head screws, and the other connections pop out on their own. The solenoid plugs are very simple to slide off, and it is really difficult to put them on any other way. If you need to, you can take a few photos of the installation. Once you have the old one out, hook up the hoses first, and slide the hose clamps back to their original position. Once you have the two black hoses back on, reposition the new valve body, and slide the additional three prongs into the inlet soap dispenser. Make sure that the fit is snug. Don’t over push, the parts are plastic. Once this is done, reinsert, the three Phillips screws into their holes. Then you can reconnect the solenoids. At this point the replacement is done, and all you have to do is replace the vanity cover. Take time to ensure that you’ve done this correctly. I left the vanity cover off and ran a test load of dirty clothes to make sure that there were no leaks. Once I assure, there were no leaks, I put the vanity cover back on and put the two screws on. This was a very easy fix. Again, just go slow removing the vanity plate so you do not crack or break the tines in the front.
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Water leaking into drum
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from RED LION, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.
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Low water flow into washer
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alexander from SALISBURY MLS, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced valve body, very easy to fix as per the video, runs normal.
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The old water assembly valve split on the bottom and started leaking.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from CARYVILLE, TN
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem s olved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.
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Washer was stopping during the spin cycle and making a grinding noise.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from MANOR, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it di d not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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top oven gasket replaced
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dennis from WESTFORD, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
shortened gasket for this oven. moved hook approx. 1 inch. used high temp adhesive. simple fix.
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Washer was noisy, made noise when agitating and spinning.
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from NANTICOKE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I had a hard time removing the agitator, had to get thin prybar to get a hold of washplate. After I removed washplate, I found that the shaft that the washplate attaches to was actually worn out. What used to be a spline was smooth. So I ordered a new clutch assembly. There are a lot of bolts that hold the clutch assembly on to the basket. There are a lot of videos on Utube that will walk you through step by step. The only problem I encountered with this was removing the nut that holds the basket to the tub. One video said it was reverse thread, which it wasn’t. You can check the thread on new clutch assembly to see which way is correct. After I put back together. Works like new.
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All Instructions for the 2927
16 - 30 of 60