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1478 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1478
46 - 60 of 135

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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The oven door would not open all the way
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from St. Augustine, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I r einstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.
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inner coil of burner no good..supposed to last forever!??
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • D. Scott from Melbourne Village, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!
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Intermittent heat then no heat on oven element
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from AKRON, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
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Small element in center burned into(inoperative
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from Gravette, AR
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner a ssy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.
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Repair was slow, due to replacement part was incorrect. Original part had two spring loaded spacers, & holes for them to sit in. The replacement part did not have holes. I was able to drill two holes to make it work.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Victor from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 scr ews & turned on circuit breaker.
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The center element of the 2-stage electric burner failed.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Cinnaminson, NJ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The cooktop is just set in the counter with no fasteners. I shut off the power and lifted the unit out. Ten small screws held the top to the body. After removal, I took a picture to have a wiring reference. I disconnected five wires with push-on terminals, then removed two Tinnerman nuts with needle-nose pliers. The failed burner was free to remove. There were two mounting ears on the bottom of the burner at positions 12 and 48 as stamped on the bottom. I transferred the mounting ears to the new burner, one screw each. I then positioned the new burner and secured with the two Tinnerman nuts, replaced the five wires, screwed the top back on and slipped the unit into the counter. Done.
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Burned out
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Dean from Elkton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove two screws to loosen the ceramic top....prop top open and change part...the part was exactly the same...change wires from one to the other and transfer clamps.....1st grade craft class would have done it in half the time I did......you folks have your parts inventory and description application to a science.....God Bless
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Over door would not open fully; light was always on
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Fareed from Randolph, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Slid off the oven door and loosened the hinge assembly. Removed the storage drawer to unhook the spring and then took off the old hinge assembly.

Inserted the spring into the new hinge assembly and then installed it - just tightened the screws. Hooked the spring into the lower point. Slid in the oven door and tested it so that is opened/closed easily. Cleaned under the oven while the storage drawer was out.

We can now bake bread, pizza, etc. What a relief.
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Oven would not fully open. Could see the broken roller on the hinge.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Peru, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the door. Unscrewed the hinge from front of oven. Took broiler drawer out. Unhooked the spring. Removed hinge. Screwed new hinge in. Rehooked the spring. Slid oven door back on hinges. Mission accomplished. Oven door works like a champ. Wife happy.
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Small burner of Dual Burner no longer would work.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry L from Palmetto, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.
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Replaced stove top burner element
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from Forest, VA
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnect stove electrical connection. Removed 2 bolts common to the upper stove top cover. Disconnected 4 wires from burner element along with 2 retaining clips.
Removed burner element and replaced with new element. Reinstalled 4 wires and 2 retaining clips. Lowered stove top cover and reinstalled 2 bolts. Connect stove electrical to wall outlet. Turn on burner element and verify that it works.
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Broken right END of oven door HANDLE (3 separate pieces assembled)
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Margaret from SARASOTA, FL
  • Very Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
(Followed the ORIGINAL manufacturer's instructions for assembly we retained when purchasing the appliance.) Replacing the broken handle end involved removal of the LEFT handle end as well as the broken RIGHT end, the center rod handle, and unscrewing the outer door face from the inner door face. Had to find specialty screwdriver for non-s tandard screw heads. Sigh. It was impossible to replace the door handle, as it requires removing the entire door - It is too heavy for one person to hold in place while the 2nd person tried to blindly replace screws thru a 1/2 inch slit in the outer and inner door pieces. Hiring a handyman is impossible leading up to the holidays, so we decided to just buy a new stove. Something that should be really simple to replace for less than $50 is now a major budget outlay due to a crappy design.
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Oven door hinge would not allow door to open completely
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Milledgeville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed oven door, removed drawer under oven, removed three screws holding hinge assembly, unhooked spring from hinge arm, inserted new hinge arm, attached spring, positioned hinge assembly and replaced screws, reinstalled drawer beneath oven being certain that no pot handles interfere with the hinge spring loaded arm, reinstall oven doo r.
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Broken Hinge
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Greer, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Assumed this broken hinge was going to be an expensive service call. Decided to try and fix it myself. Ordered the part off partselect.com and got some repair tips off the website that made this a breeze. I am not handy at all but was able to complete the replacement in less than 30 minutes and spent only $30 on the part. Just needed to u nscrew the old hinge and release the spring from under the stove (which I accessed by pulling out the drawer). It would have cost me over $100 to just get a service person to look at it.
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Oven door hinge rollers had broken.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Lonnie from Nipomo, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair went surprisingly well! My only problem was the bottom screws needed WD40 to loosen, but otherwise the parts went in easily.
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All Instructions for the 1478
46 - 60 of 135