14384 - Instructions

Second time I did this. Same repair about 4 years ago. Pretty easy. Take the cabinet enclosure off, take pump off, remove motor and replace the coupling. Since the coupling is now reinforced with metal, a little more difficult to get on the drive shafts of the motor and the clutch drive?. $20.00 saved me $500.00 for now with a relat ... Read more ively easy repair and hopefully with reinforced part, it will last a little longer.

snapped off the 2 springs on the water pump,took off hoses with pliers,took off the 2 little screws on the motor springs.snapped off the 2 springs on the motor,and the motor came off.took out the drive coupling,it just slides off...then reverse the procedure,and you are done...

Very easy and cheap repair. Hardest part was getting cabinet back on. Watched u tube video before and easy and quick to do take off cabinet, in clip motor and slide new motor coupler in. Put back together

First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holdi ... Read more ng the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.

Unplug power cord. Turn off hot and cold water to washer. Disconnect water lines at the back of the washer, but mark which is hot and cold on the hoses . Remove drain hose from the sink tub or sewer line but keep it elevated so the water don't run out. Tip over on the backside but put something under the back side like a tool box to ... Read more keep the top elevated a little bit, but not on the control panel just below it. Now remove the two screws that are in the motor retainer. Now pry motor retainers loose then lift out motor and remove old coupling. Now install new coupling. If it is a little tight on the shaft, use a deep socket a little bigger than the shaft to tap them on. Line up coupling while putting motor in place. Then snap on motor retainers. Look at the coupler make sure it is straight and not s shape. If it is s shape, remove and tap coupler on shaft a little more. If it is straight then reinstall the two screws you removed in the beginning from the motor retainers. Hook up drain line, water lines hot to hot, cold to cold. Then check for leaks on water lines. Plug in ,turn on, if it sounds ok. Don"t stand there, wash something.

Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad.
so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on ... Read more each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis

Removing top console control panel, deataching 2 clips and removiong the entire box to get access to the agitator and the direct drive, one part on the top and other on the bottom of the washer,removing top cap of the spinner got access to the agitator. Using 1/2" socked and pliers remove & rep[lace the agitator. for the direct coupling: ... Read more remove the water pump (2 clips) 1/4" socked & screw driver remove the electrical Motor, remove & replace the direct coupling, put all removed parts back toguether, reasembly the box ataching clips on place, console panel Install, perform operational check, was good I have the washer running like a new machine.

Pulled the old lint filter out and threw it in the trash. Slid the new filter in and it was all done. Doesn't take a genius to do this repair. My old dryer a sears/kenmore is over 40 years old and the lint filter fit perfect. (MF part number w10874409)

I ordered the wrong part. It was pick and choose from the info provided.I checked again and found one that's 58% of the time the part.

I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in ... Read more the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.

I actually didn't remove any of the panels. I tipped the washer at a 45 degree angle to the back and side to release the motor clamps, unhooked the power to the motor and removed the two drain pipes from the motor.

Once I had all of that removed, I was able to pull the motor away from the transmission and put the new coupling ... Read more pieces on. The hardest part was holding the motor up (it is fairly heavy and cumbersome to hold while the machine is tipped like that). The pieces didn't go on too easily either. It would have been ideal to have at least the front panel off to use a hammer more easily. I did manage to get it on using a socket and a hammer. With some light taps it went on.

Next I put the hoses back on, the power, the bottom motor clamp, and then wrestled for another 30 minutes getting the top motor clamp on.

The clamps are the metal like springs that hook into the transmission and then spring tighten the motor to the transmission. Then there is a little screw that holds it in place... Not easy to see from any angle, and that is where having the front panel off would be ideal.

I've NEVER worked on a washer before and I accomplished this by myself in about 2 hours. I think if you are sure this is the problem, fix it yourself. Best 20 bucks and 2 hours I spent this month by saving a couple hundred on a new washer or repair person.

I did the repair largely according to the instructions in the video for the coupling. One significant issue made this much worse than it should have been. The coupling didn't just slide onto the shafts on either the motor or gear side. I tried putting them on as best as i could and put it all back together. I did a test run of the agitati ... Read more on and spin with the washer empty and, when that went well, attempted a full load.

During the full load test I started hearing a high-pitched squeal that varied in intensity. I let it keep running for a couple minutes to see if it would settle in, but then smoke started coming out from the machine! I pulled the plug, removed the clothes, vacuumed out the full tub and took the machine apart again. The motor was very hot but the gears, coupler, etc all seemed to be in order.

I went back online and watched the video again to see if I'd missed a step (I hadn't). I watched another video from a different website and got an important tip -- use a spark plug socket and hammer the coupler onto each shaft so the shaft is flush with the metal part of the coupler.

After doing this, I put it all back together again and very tentatively ran a test load and then several full loads and everything seems to be fine.

If I'd had that tidbit at the start, this would have been a 20 minute easy repair.

I just took the old element replaced with the new one i order from this site, I save some money was really easy so proud of my self...

It was fairly easy a few tight spaces to reach in but all in all it was pretty straight forward

It fit like a glove. Just put it right in.