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1069650412 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 1069650412
31 - 45 of 211

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socket melted with bulb in it.
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • martin l. from JACKSONVILLE,, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.
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Used frig was missing these items
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Cynthia from Atlanta, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Just installed them with my hands - very easy. I also found the website easy to navigate and find the parts I needed. Delivery was great also - good job!
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Ice buildup on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping into the refrigerator
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Craig from Rockledge, FL
  • Easy
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. Afte r partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.
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The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled
10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jorge from Miami, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burn ed. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.
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The after market 4 yr old motor was making a wierd noise.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marcus from St Petersburg, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed back panel and removed the motor put new quick disconnect on and tapped the mounting holes. Removed and cleaned fan blade from old motor and put on the new motor. Mounted motor plugged it in and replaced panel.
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Motor Bearings Locking Up
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from North Palm Beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the back panel on the refrigerator--unplugged the condenser fan motor--removed the motor--placed a small fan to cool the condenser--called parts select--ordered the motor--the motor arrived less than 24 hours after I ordered it--replaced the motor and rear panel on the refrigerator--probably saved more than $200. 00--Very happy wi th parts select service--plus I had a misunderstanding with my credit card and john at parts select was very helpful --not their fault--excellent company
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Fridge would not defrost creating ice buildup and fridge would then get warm
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan from Madrid, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
My brother came up and installed the part.
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freezer constantly covered with ice not defrosting
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from millstone, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I opened rear wall inside freezer (two screws) cut the wires on old thermostat and removed it. Then I attatched the new thermostat to the existing wires using wire nuts and electrical tape and slid it onto the copper tubing. Re-installed the rear wall. Freezer works like a charm and the refridgerator is also colder. Job completed in twent y minutes and Tim Allen has nothing on me. Mike Milne
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The door light socket was broken and hanging down
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Roanoke, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this tim e, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!
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Leakiong water from the freezer compartment into the lower refrigeration compartment
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from indianapolis, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
After unplugging the appliance, I unscrewed the screws in the bottom and the back of the freezer compartment and un-clipped the connector for the ice machine, which i do not have installed. I clipped the pink and brown wires and replace the switch with the new switch. unfortunately, the appliance is still dripping water from the freezer c ompartment. It worked for a couple of days then stopped working. Still looking for a true FIX.
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Cracked crisper
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Pomona, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took out the cracked one, and replace with the new one. Fitted perfectly.
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Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from Arlington, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causin g the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
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Removed the old parts then connected the new parts.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from OLIVE BRANCH, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The compressor immediately started when I plugged the refrigerator back in. Around 24 hours later the freezer compartment was at 0 degrees, and the refrigerator was at 35 degrees.
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Freezer froze and refrigerator wet
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Marengo, OH
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First took all frozen food out and than undid the screws that held back on--than cut the wires that held the piece and replaced it but also found that the plug was frozen so we thawed that out, that is why it took longer. Used air compressor to blow air and it broke it free and than we finished and put the food back after it got cold. So far it is working find and to beat all we received our part the next day so my husband could fix it that weekend--Thank you for the quick respond-
Patricia in Marengo Ohio
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Refrigerator light would not turn on.
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Suzanne from STERLING HTS, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.
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All Instructions for the 1069650412
31 - 45 of 211