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106825 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 106825
1 - 15 of 393

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My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
439 of 554 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garth from forest lake, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
184 of 223 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tom from Franklin, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplug the appliance.
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new
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The door would not close properly. The CAM had broken.
143 of 147 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from San Clemente, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The repair was very simple.

1. Remove the food from the door shelves.

2.Remove the door by first removing the three screws holding the hinge at the top of the refrigerator.

3. Lift door off of the bottom hinge.

4.Replace bottom CAM on bottom hinge (one screw)

5. Replace top CAM and sh im on door (one screw)

6. I put a little grease on the cam to make it slide better.

7. Place door on bottom hinge. Remount top hinge.

8. Done and works better than new.
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Unit very noisy and freezer too warm
90 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Churchville, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the racks in the freezer. The rack supports on the sides lift off without tools. The evaporator cover is at the back of the freezer. 4 phillips head screws. The cover lifts up then forward to expose the evaporator, evaporator fan and duct. The duct is held by 3 hex head screws. The evaporator fan is attached to the duct wi th a wiring pigtail to a plug. Unplug the fan and remove the duct. The fan is held by 2 hexhead screws. The new fan is put in place and assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. The unit is quiet and cools properly now. The new part fit perfectly.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
136 of 255 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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Defrost timer was faulty. Required a mild tap to restart
69 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
  • LES from MADERA, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Trouble shot the electrical circuit per the electrical schematic and zeroed in when I noted the Defrost Timer circuit was open. When I tapped on the bottom of the timer it began functioning normally (for a few days). Ordered a new Defrost Timer Kit and along with the installation instruction, I watched the on-line video. It was very help ful!!
After installation was complete, I plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and.......nothing happened! Hmmm!

Removed the Defrost Time Kit and inspected it for any damage and found none. Then I placed a flathead screwdriver to the manual advance knob and slightly rotate the gear mechanism. I heard a distance "click”. I believe the Timer was in the ‘defrost’ mode when received.

I reinstalled the timer, verified the wiring connections and this time plugged the Refrigerator into the electrical outlet and ….. it worked!!!

I unplugged the refrigerator, finished the installation per the instructions, plugged the unit in and monitored it for a few hours (just in case). That was a week ago and the Refrigerator is working like new.

The instructions were written in a manner which required re-reading a few times as they could be a bit vague. The video was what really helped and I appreciate PartSelect adding it to the instructions.
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Freezer Iced up, dripping water into refrigerator below
63 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Bradenton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
De-iced the refrigerator. Removed two screws from the thermostat panel on the upper refrigerator section. Tilted it down, removed two speed nuts holding the timer, unplugged the timer plug. Determined from the instruction sheet (easy to follow) what time delay function is used, based on wire colors, placed the jumper on the correct ter minal on the new timer. Plugged it in, replaced the speed nuts and screws. The timer fit perfect, works just like it is supposed to, quick easy job.
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Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
62 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
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The refrigerator would go off in the defrost cycle and not come back on. You could strike the bottom of the element and sometimes it would come back on until the next cycle.
56 of 66 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jim from Sheridan, AR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I replaced the thermostat that I had ordered thru Partselect but that did not seem to effect the reair. According to the schematic diagram the only other thing in the circuit was the defrost timer. Immediately on its arrival I went to the refrigerator and removed the two screws that hold the timer in place and disconnected the tw o wires and installed the new one from Partselect in reverse order. It took about 15 minutes and it was back to running.
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Main Door wouldn't self-close
43 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Huntington, WV
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After removing all the food items from the door, I popped the plastic cover off of the hinge assembly located on the top of the door. With a fine point Sharpie pen , I marked the outline of around the hinge assembly so I could return it to original position. I then loosened each of the 3 bolts holding the hinge on just enough to allow me to clear the pin of the hinge out of the hole in the door. Once the top was free of the hinge, I lifted the door off of the bottom hinge/pin assembly. My cam parts on the bottom hinge and door were either broken and/or partially missing. I removed the broken and worn pieces by removing each of the screws holding the top and bottom (of the bottom hinge assembly) cam pieces and installed the new ones using same screws. I then reversed the steps and slid the bottom of the door back onto the bottom hinge assembly and then lifted the top hinge enough to allow the hinge pin to slid back into the hole on top of the door. Positioned the hinge so it matched the outline and tightened the 3 bolts. I checked the closing and made a slight adjustment to door as one of the shelves was hitting the interior as it tried to close. I did this by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the door up and to the right (this door was on the right side of refrigerator). Tightened the bolts and reinstalled the hinge cover.
Pretty easy. My door cams were a little different so I didn't use all the parts in the kit. My shims were metal and did not move when I replace the cams so I didn't use anything in this repair except the 2 lower cam parts. I also put some grease/vaseline on the cams to lubricate them.
I figure the plastic cams just wore out over the years and all the heavy junk we put in the door shelves. I lived with this problem about 2 years before it donned on me that it was probably just a plastic piece or two that was broken or worn out.
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Timer "clicking", indicating worn gears
38 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Plano, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.
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noisy fan motor
38 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from nashotah, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, c lose up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.
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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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fan motor was loud,sqeal,would not get cold
35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Monsey, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Very easy, hardest part was taking panels out of way. 20 min. to finish. After repair it works like new.About 20 years old.
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Defrost timer was faulty. It would not restart on it's own.
33 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ed from Frankfort, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!
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All Instructions for the 106825
1 - 15 of 393