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106825 Kenmore - Instructions

All Instructions for the 106825
61 - 75 of 393

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getting frost build-up
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • harold from sperryville, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed door--removed liner and gasket, then replaced. reason for the long time required was that unit was defrosted, cleaned and painted.
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Freezer would periodically allow things to partially thaw out
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dana from Canyon Lake, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!
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Freezer was dripping water into refrigerator below
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Redmond, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Need ed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.
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Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from Arlington, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • Less than 15 mins
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causin g the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
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The door light socket was broken and hanging down
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Roanoke, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this tim e, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!
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Making a god awful racket.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Locust Grove, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ok its the garage "adult " Beverage chiller.

Easy fix First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires assembly was the reverse. and the beverages never got warm..
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Lost shelf support bracket
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DAVID from LAFAYETTE, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered shelf support stud kit. Product was promptly delivered, and contained the parts as shown on website. Took longer to open the package than to replace the missing shelf support bracket. No problems. Would order from them again.
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Light in my refrigerator didn't work.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Byron Center, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved m e $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.
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Loud thud when door opened.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Floyd from Rushville, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Remove all items from the door shelves. Removed the top hinge cover and removed hinge mounting screws. Lifted door off bottom hinge and laid it on its side. I then replaced bottom hinge cam by removing (1) cap screw. Very simple job.
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Freezer making loud whining noise-Fridge not cooling well
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dale from Blaine, MN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the 3 screws in the back of the freezer, pulled back the metal back plate on the freezer. Removed 4 nuts on the plastic housing that holds the fan and pulled the housing down. Disconnected the wires, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the fan to the housing. Replaced old fan motor with new fan motor onto housing just as it was befo re. Reconnected the wires. And tested the motor. Worked great. Re-assembled everything as it was and it was done.
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Refrigerator light would not stay on
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from Manchester Center, VT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Socket set
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.
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3 inches of frost in Fridge, 72 degrees in Fridgerator
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Orangeburg, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.
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had to push door closed
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • peter from portsmouth, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
lifted door 1/2 inch and put blocks of wood under the door and replaced the lower hindge cam.
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Fan motor stopped working.
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Clifton Heights, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first unplugged the unit.
Secondly I unscrewed the back panel and removed it.
Third, I unplugged the fan, unscrewed it, removed it, and replaced it with the new fan motor.
I then plugged it to confirm that it worked and then put everything back together.
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Refrigerator/Freezer not getting cold.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Calvin from KELLER, TX
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Determined that compressor was not running, after researching problem on another site they recommended i try the condenser moor fan or motor, the defrost thermostat or defrost timer. . I was not satisfied with their recommendations. If I had tried their recommendations i would have likely gotten frustrated and spent upwards of $3000 to replace the 22 year-old hand me down unit. Thank you Parts Select for properly diagnosing my relay failure saving me a ton of money.
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All Instructions for the 106825
61 - 75 of 393