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XB258DM4WW General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven slow to heat up
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Joe from Harkers Is., NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
Removed oven door. Removed 2 screws from heat sensor on rear upper wall of oven. Pulled unit out to access rear of unit. Removed six screws on shield on back of unit. Dis connected heat sensor wire and pulled old sensor through from inside of oven. Feed wire of new sensor through from inside and plug in. Everything in reverse. I also had
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the gas(propane) company come out and check the pressure coming out of the "low pres." regulator. It was low, they changed the regulator.
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Stove drawer rear guides broken
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Robert from Shakopee, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.
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clock, over control, oven light , timer did not work
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Robert from Austin, AR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again
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Range lower drawer would not stay on track.
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Richard from Newark, DE
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Easy to install replacement parts using the screws provided.
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Broken drawer support
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Mario from Deer Park, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Followed the example picture on the part bag. Anyone could do this, incredibly easy. Took about 4 minutes to install both sides.
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Plastic slide for storage drawer broken.
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James from Stuart, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.
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Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
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Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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Our bottom drawer support broke and the bottom drawer was canted
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Robert from Woodinville, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw
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Bad control board
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Daryl from Savannah, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed o
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ven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
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David from Lisle, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a cham
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p. Took 5 minutes.
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Rust on Bottom of Oven Door
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Nat from Irvine, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Self-clean the oven or use Easy-Off. Lay some towels or other padded ragging on the kitchen table. Open the oven door and lock the hinges. Pull the door out of the oven and lay it on the table with the oven handle hanging off the edge of the table. The inside of the oven door will be face up on the table. Use the 1/4 Nut Driver to rem
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ove three sheet metal screws from the bottom of the door. Use the T10 to remove two long screws from the top inside of the door. lift the door guts and set aside along with the 5 screws and two spacers you found under the top of the door. Use the nut driver to remove 4 screws holding the Door Bottom Channel Trim. The door handle and side channels will fall off (catch and set aside). you are left with one piece of glass with the old bottom channel trim. Gently tap the lip of the channel with a screwdriver in a towel to slip it off the glass. Gentle patience is a virtue here or the glass will break. Clean the glass with CeramaBryte or equal to get the burnt oven goop off. (While you're at it, do the same to the bottom of the door guts above.) Slip the new bottom channel on the glass as far as it will go (not very far in my case) and replace the door handle and side channels. You will see that the holes line up pretty well without having to jam the bottom channel onto the glass. Screw (4) the side channels to the bottom channel. Replace the Door Guts, being careful to line up the two spacers at the top of the door. Three screws in the bottom of the door, then the two Torx screws back in the top of the door. Put each screw in just finger tight and after they are all started, screw them home. Slip the reassembled door back in the oven frame, flip the locks up and Voila! Now that it's over, let me just say that if a camel is a horse designed by a committee, this thing must have been thought up by the US Congress!
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Spilled 1/2 gallon Hot wax on stove
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Roman from West Chester, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took door apart to clean inside of glass door. scraped most of the wax from the stove 99%. Could not get the last 1%. Cleaned all parts. Put door back together again, put the door seal on after I got the right one. Had to reorder a new seal(one that was actually made for that model) messed up the first one and whalla! Took about 3 weeks
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to clean off the wax from stove and the surrounding area. Stove is good as new. Thanks for the quick service. Would definitely recommend and use you guys again. Thank You.
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Shorted Control Unit -
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Gerald from Plantsville, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Control unit was easy to remove ,wires color coded-the face plate(key pad) needed to be separated from the old unit. Carefully used a hair dryer to warm the decal. . . Secured the old unit gently in a vise, warmed ( and separated slowly, with a razor blade and thin putty knife(patience). . Once removed, applied to the new unit. .
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. 5 Stars to partselect for service. . . . Turned a $400 repair into $100 do-it your self. Partselect will be my 1st "go to" from now-on.
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Bottom trim on oven door rusted - poor GE design
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Wallace from Vestal, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
In order to replace the bottom trim (and side trims if needed) it is necessary to separate the oven door front panel and its outer glass from the inside door panel. It is best to remove the entire oven door and lay it down on a table in order to do this. (Refer to owner's manual for instructions on removing the door from the oven, but it
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basically lifts out easily when is is in the broil-open position). Remove the front panel of the oven door by unscrewing the two machine screws (these may be torx head screws on your appliance) on the top inside corners of the door that hold the door handle. (screw spacers on the inside likely will fall out when you remove the machine screws - don't be alarmed) Then remove the three screws at the bottom of door trim. The front panel can then be lifted away from the back panel. This will allow access to the screws that hold the bottom trim to the side trim. Remove these and the bottom trim will slide off. Replace trim pieces and reassemble.
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The electronic board controls failed to illuminate or work after very strong power surge associated with lightening. The stove top burners still worked fine but not the clock and controlls for the oven.
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Leon from Cullowhee, NC
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the
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back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.
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