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XB258DM4WW General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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fried oven control using raid
4 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kerry from Loveland, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
replaced oven clock control ref maintenance manual, 4 screws and 8 wires. plugged in new control and op checks good.
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F2 error when oven was heating up, along with a beeping noise and then it shut off
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lori from Paris, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!
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oven was not getting up to temp
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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walter from townshend, VT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since
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it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.
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F2 error code
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jud from gatesville, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's tha
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t easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
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Hard to move drawer in and out because the rear drawer supports broke off.
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Steven from Lansdale, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.
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f-2 or f-3
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daniel from gap, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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F2 reading
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lynn from sunnyside, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Followed the instructions that were sent to me by E-Mail.
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rear drawer supports broke
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TERRY from RICHMOND, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.
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Mother board was blown
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Kenneth from Bradenton, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
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Wallace from Demorest,, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back
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to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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oven control panel was blacked out..no clock no start.
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Pam from Daphne, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.
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Oven door trim rusted (bottom of door)
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thomas j from canal winchester, OH
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This repair is really easy unless the trim piece has rusted so badly that it's attached itself to the front door glass. It took a long time and some WD-40 to pry the trim off w/o breaking the glass. REPAIR: Remove the door and lay it on a flat surface. Unscrew the 3 bottom screws w/ small pliers, then unscrew the top two inside door sc
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rews w/ a small metric allen wrench. Remove the door trim to get to the last four side trim screws. Once the old trim is out just clean up any residue/rust remaining on the glass, install the new trim and reverse the steps to put the door back together. If the old trim comes off easily it should only take @ 20-30 minutes.
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Blew the electronic Control Board
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PETE from MANCHACA, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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The oven temperature could not be controlled
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Keith from Annapolis, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later.
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Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!
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Range top burners work, but Oven would not. Click flashed and made a clicking noise when trying to turn on the oven, but shut off
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James from Hope Mills, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
My Range had the issue I mentioned here. I put off the repairs for a long time, but Thanksgiving was around the corner and we needed a working oven. I had made a previous call to repair man and was quoted $75.00 for a service call to come and check the issue. Before calling a repair man back, I decided to pull the rear cover off the range
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to see how complicated it would be to repair. I removed the rear cover and found that everything was connected to this "Oven Electronic Control" except for the top elements (explaining why they still worked and the oven didn't). This made it seem that this part would surely have to be causing the issue. I did a search on Google and found this company and the part that I needed. The cost of the part was less than the service call for a repair man would have been. I ordered the part and paid for next day delivery. The part shipped on Monday and arrived on Tuesday. For the installation, I had to identify the wiring because the connector layout was a little different. When I looked closely I found that the terminals were numbered the same as the old part. I replaced wire for wire, put it all back together and tried it out. It worked like a champ. I was thrilled to have been able to find the part with schematics on this web site and it was the correct part and fixed the problem. I was also thrilled that I saved a couple hundred dollars fixing it myself and that it was so easy. I would highly recommend this company for the ease of use of finding the part on their web site, the reasonable price and their prompt processing and delivery.
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