WTW6200SW1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pi ... Read more vot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.

PLASTIC motor housing gets hot and become loose. causing bearing to spin and make noise . Replaced motor that was quick and simple by removing 3 screws and 2 hose clamps , pluged up motor and begain washing again with no problem . Just wish motor housing was not plastic .

Read the previous reviews and showed my son the diagram which he then replaced the part in about 15 minutes. No more hassle and works like a charm :)

took top off.2.replaced rods one at a time.placed top back on.very simple.evan got new bushings for the top.very simple process.no skills required.

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now fun ... Read more ctions normally.

Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.

Replaced rods with new set of 4

Removed old tub assembly and installed new tub. Job took a little longer due to first new tub arrived damaged and I had to partially reassemble machine temporarily until second tub arrived.

1. Removed tub to ensure nothing caught to stop rotating. 2. Removed rotor and noted stator had fracture across center from coil to coil. 3. Changed stator, RPS and harness. 4. tested and received F 50 code (no rotation sensed by RPS.5. Changed RPS control board-washer works fine. Hope this repair acts as having a new washer again.

we ordered a motor controller,pop out the old one,then replaced it with the one we ordered,and bingo,problem is solved

Removed cover and removed rods,replacing them one at a time.

I disassembled the top half of the machine removed the drum and found a bad bearing. The code F51 said i had a bad motor control board. I had a frozen bearing on the main shaft. Freed up bearing, machine now runs but I need to replace the bearing,

Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the ... Read more electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.