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WSERR417F2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions
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The plastic on the back of the knob that allows for engagement with the washing machine broke off. I replaced the knob and replaced the clip that hold it in place. Nothing to it. The part came within two days.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Karen from Flagstaff, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I just removed the clip and took off the old knob. I than put the new one on and replaced the clip.
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Start knob broke
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leslie from CAMILLA, GA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Line up knob. Push on.
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Washer would stop and not start at times?
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Boerne, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Took off the front panel of the washer which exposed electrical wires going to top lid sensor. Took out old sensor installed new. Cut wires from old sensor and spliced wires from new sensor to machines wires that went to old sensor. Replaced front of washer. Washer works fine now.
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Washing machine would fill, spin, and drain, but would not agitate
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christopher from Holly Springs, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.
First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come o ... Read more ff. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.
Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!
First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come o ... Read more ff. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.
Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!
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would not drain
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terry O. from Pie Town, NM
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.
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washer wouldn't spun
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doreene from Gibbsboro, NJ
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator
Other Parts Used:
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loud squeal on spin cycle Bad tub bearing.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dan from Mendota, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything bac
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k together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.
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Other Parts Used:
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The washer was shaking a lot
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Luiz from Bethesda, MD
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.
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Noisy Washing Machine, tub bangs around
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Venice, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on di
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agrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.
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knob would not engage dial behind it
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jerry from pomeroy, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Removed clip (keeper), behind knob, releasing it from shaft. Replace with new knob, and clip.
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Agitator would not agitate, but the shaft was working. Agitator Coupling stripped out
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Winston from Ford, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed
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the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.
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Water leaking (from pump)
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jan from Protection, KS
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!
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Debris in pump
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Howard from Davie, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Could have removed debis in old pump. Kept it as a spare.
Replacement was simple , (two nuts) & (2 Lg. Hose Clamps) + two wires.
Dealer wanted $168.00 Labor + $67.00 for part!.
Replacement was simple , (two nuts) & (2 Lg. Hose Clamps) + two wires.
Dealer wanted $168.00 Labor + $67.00 for part!.
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Drain hose was leaking
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mohammed from Berkeley, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Surprisingly easy. I took the screws off, then pulled off the drain hose. I then inserted the new hose, and put back the screws. Amazing quick!
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Control set knob no longer turned the setting dial
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Jonesboro, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I reviewed the service guide on Partselect and was able to take the old knob off the washer and say that the teeth on the knob had worn off, I called in and ordered the part on Saturday and the part was delivered in Wednesday, within 2 minuets from getting home from work the washer was fixed. My wife was ready to go out and buy a new wash
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er when it only cost a little over $13.00 to get it fixed.
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