WMCD2050HW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Dis ... Read more connected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree b ... Read more end; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I ... Read more discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

Unfortunately this did not solve my problem. After further inspection I still have the burning smell and the washer cuts off after it Agitates for a few seconds then in a minute or so it will Agitate a few more seconds and then cut off again. I also replaced the control panel still have the same problem. I would say it is the motor but th ... Read more e motor works fine in Spin Cycle. As for the Pump replacement it is very simple just follow the instruction Video on this site and 15 minutes later your new pump is installed. I will keep the pump since my new Washer uses the same part. P.S. The burning smell is not coming from the belt. It's almost like some kind of circuit protector is tripping and then a few minutes later it lets the washer start again.

Washing machine stopped draining, was looking into buying a new one. Thought maybe it was the pump, looked on-line and found one for around $50.00. Recieved the pump in pretty good time (3 days) The repair was not too bad, although the "ring clamp" was not very easy to work with. Hard to work it around the hoses in such a tight spot.

Removed the front panel (retainer clips), removed two screws holding the top panel and door, removed all 4 dampening straps and replaced them with the new straps, put the components back in reverse order of removal.

One of the fastest repairs that I have performed. Took less than 15 minutes. Unhook wires, removed haoding screws, unclamped hoses. Reversed the process to install the new unit. Shipping was incredible. Ordered the part at 1400 on Thursday and had the part in hand Friday at 0900. One of the best on-line experiences that I have ever ... Read more had. Thanks a bundle, Richard

with a blade screw driver, I released the clips holding the front cover (from the top cover) tip the panel foward and lift off of pins on bottom. I put some towels in the bottom to absorb any water left after removing all I could with a cup. Then I released both clamps with pliers, pushing them back on hoses. Using a 10 mm nut driver, I r ... Read more emoved the pump. I then mounted the new pump, pushed hoses on and slid clamps in position with pliers(while squeezing pliers) Voila, it works like it's new. Thank you Parts Select

removed old dampening straps replaced with new ones a total of 4 straps, took about 10 min, works great again.very easy to do. thank you.

I pulled the front panel off as described in the video on Partselect.coms video (very helpfull) and unpluged the pump, I was able to test the original pump and determine it to be good and ultimatly that was not the problem. However had it been it would have been a simple fix. returning the unused part was super simple and painfree!

First I uplugged the machine and removed the front cover of the machine by prying outward at the top corners with a screwdriver. Then I removed the two bolts from the mounting bracket and unplugged the electrical wires. Then using a pliers I squeazed the hosed clamps and slid them back on the hoses and pulled the hoses off the pump.
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To install the new pump, simply reverse the order and check for leaks. The whole process took about 20 minutes.

My washer was full of water after it wouldn't drain as part of the wash cycle. I used a Wet/Dry vacuum to remove the water from the tub. Followed the video provided on this part page. When I pulled the hose from the wash tub to the pump at lea ... Read more st a gallon of water that I was in the bottom of the tub and hose rushed into the base of the washer. It was an unexpected mess to clean up a the end of the job. Pump was fairly easy to remove from the washer, but reinstalling the hoses to the pump was slightly more challenging. The hose from the tub to the pump is about an inch too short to make this an easy fit. I had to have my wife hold the hose clamp open with the channel locks while I positioned pump onto the hose. After the hose was installed, the second hose was much easier to install. With the new pump the washer running like a champ!

i took out the two screws that mount the pump to the base of the washer, then i took a pair of channel locks to disconnect the clamps on the drain lines. thats it. i put the new one in and it works great!