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VISR309JT5AA Hotpoint Washer - Instructions
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Lid switch failed
35 of 47 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Stephen from Woodbridge, VA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire c ... Read more onnector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire c ... Read more onnector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.
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Noisy washer, especially while spinning.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Olle J from Albert Lea, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine
... Read more
until it completely fails.
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The machnica had recently developed a rumble during the spin cycle
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Fred from Murphy, TX
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I
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did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.
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Original valve assem leaked by.
-
David from Lubbock, TX
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two retaining screws and hose clamp. Removed old assem and installed new assem. After reassembly I plugged in washer and tested. Solenoid valves did not energize. Evidently the new valve coils are not the proper voltage. I placed the old coils on the new valve assembly and they work fine. I looked for voltage requirements on the
... Read more
old assembly before purchasing the new part, but they were not marked, nor could I find anything on the schematic diagram. The parts description on PartSelect did not mention voltage either. I called Sears Parts looking for the parts locally and was told that they were only sold online. They sales person sent me a picture of the replacement assembly. It was different from the OEM old assembly, therefore, I went with PartSelect, but in retrospect further investigation may have revealed the voltage difference.
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Washing machine overflowed when daughter used it
-
Galen from Lexington, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
I work in hvac, I more or less understand the older electro mechanical non electronic machines so I gave diagnosis a stab. I already knew that the water level switch could cause problems. I noted that the hot and cold water fill valve solenoids DID shut off tightly. While testing, I tried blowing and sucking on switch hose port and listen
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ed for a clear click; no click. At this point you replace the switch just to be sure. I blew out on outlet side of vinyl tubing going into water in tub. Used model and serial number to locate part on website. I physically removed water level switch (you twist it off by gently prying under a tab and turning 90 degrees) or else remove switch with short mini philips. I very carefully compared the removed switch visually to the very good multiple multi position photos on website. That showed me that the switches looked the same. So when I orderred the part I was 98% sure it was right. The part arrived and was correct. I installed it in 5 minutes, tested it with different levels. Machine repaired! Recorded part number in computer notes.
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