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VISR309JT5AA Hotpoint Washer - Overview

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Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
★★★★★
★★★★★
(9)
Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner side of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
Dishwasher Hose Clamp Kit – Part Number: WH1X2036
$26.40
In Stock
Dishwasher Hose Clamp Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #WH1X2036
This is a water hose clamp kit for a variety of appliances including dishwashers and washers. This is a genuine replacement part. The kit includes two hose clamps. The smaller of the two is 1 inch in diameter while the larger one is 2 inches in diameter. The hose clamps secure the end of the water hose in place to prevent the hose from leaking. If you notice leaking from the hose of your appliance, you may need to replace this kit. Protect your hands with work gloves during this repair to avoid injury.
BAFFLE SCREW AND WASHER – Part Number: WE02X30757
$16.05
In Stock
BAFFLE SCREW AND WASHER
Part #WE02X30757
SCREW – Part Number: WH2X1211
$15.00
In Stock
SCREW
Part #WH2X1211
Sold individually.
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number: WH12X1075
No Longer Available
Water Inlet Valve
Part #WH12X1075
** Please note that the part has been redesigned from the original, but will still fit and work the same. This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
Flood Gasket – Part Number: WH1X2729
$52.93
Special Order
Flood Gasket
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WH1X2729
This part is for the hose to outer tub.
Washer Timer – Part Number: WH12X1082
$184.01
On Order
Washer Timer
Part #WH12X1082
Lid Switch Assembly – Part Number: WH12X1043
No Longer Available
Lid Switch Assembly
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #WH12X1043
The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed.
Washer Switch Rotary – Part Number: WH12X10499
No Longer Available
Washer Switch Rotary
Part #WH12X10499
BUTTON PLUG – Part Number: WH1X2745
$15.00
Special Order
Water Level Pressure Switch – Part Number: WH12X10068
No Longer Available
Water Level Pressure Switch
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #WH12X10068
This part is located behind the control panel. It helps determine the level of water in the washer. As the water fills the hose, while tub is filling, it will push the air against a diaphragm inside the switch. More water that enters the tub, more pressure is applied against the switch.

Common Symptoms of the VISR309JT5AA

How this model fails, and the parts that fix it.

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Lid switch failed
35 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Woodbridge, VA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire c onnector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.
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Noisy washer, especially while spinning.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Olle J from Albert Lea, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.
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The machnica had recently developed a rumble during the spin cycle
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from Murphy, TX
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.
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