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SCE30500W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the SCE30500W
106 - 120 of 262

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Element burn out. Would not heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from AIKEN, SC
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done
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"F3" error message and no oven heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from PAYSON, AZ
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
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Small burner on glass top stove stopped working.
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • REX from VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don 't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.
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indicator ring worked intermittently, no heat
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Louisville, NE
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
raising the cook top on to 2x2s, one on each end, allowed me to remove the 9 sheet metal screws that keep the glass top fastened to the box containing all of the heating elements and controls. After removing the control knobs and the glass top, everything was clearly visible. Removing the four screws that hold the control box frame in pla ce allowed me to turn the switches upside down and photograph the placement of all of the wires on the pins. I then transferred the wires from the old switch to what I thought were the corresponding pins on the new switch(the replacement switch has more pins, and they are not located in exactly the same spots as the old switch). When I turned the power back on, the switch turned the burners on, I had heat but the indicator lights didn't work. I turned the breakers back off and rewired according to a previous commentors wiring directions(his model was not exactly the same as mine), the indicators worked but I was back to no heat. I called my son, who has his own commercial electric company,and he looked at my photos from before, the diagram that came with the new switch, and it took him about 15 minutes to reconnect the pins to different wires and when we turned the power back on---both indicators and heating elements worked. It was the dual switch and double indicator that made it more complex to figure out. Nice to have very smart kids.
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Bake element exploded on Christmas Eve
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Lois from Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
My son put in the new part and turned on the oven. The broiler heated, but not the bake element. He switched the wires to find out if the bake element would work. It heated, but not the broiler. That told him the control board was a problem. He took it off and could see that one of the solder points had burned off in the explosion. He cleaned the board and put on a new dot of solder. He put it all together and it worked perfectly.
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Burners stayed hot and couldn’t be adjusted
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • roger from LITTLETON, NC
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed Igor’s instructions and it was very easy and straightforward. New switches work great.
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faulty dual surface burner swich
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • olof from san diego, DE
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I followed your excellent service instructions.
This was the reason I purchased the part from you,
even though other websites had the same part for considerably less
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Oven door was locked, couldn't set oven temps
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Nashville, TN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!
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Oven temperature fluctuates
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from SOLON, IA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.
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worn out burner switch
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • William from ARCADIA, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).
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Right rear burner under glass no longer would heat
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Maple Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
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F5 fault code kept appearing
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis Rodriguez from Granbury, TX
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
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burned burner control out of warranty
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Temple, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test bur ner in all positions
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Oven would not heat
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ralph from Nicholasville, KY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and ove n works like new.
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Broken Surface Burner control
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Batavia, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove 4 screws that holds down panel;removed dial;removed screw that held switch to panel. Took off wire one at a time ann put on corresponding lug. Repeated above in reverse.
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All Instructions for the SCE30500W
106 - 120 of 262