SC22 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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The fridge started leaking water and stop cooling!
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Santos from Boca Raton, AL
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
I used the process of elimination. The freezer was cold but the fridge side was warm. The motor was runing but the fan was not working. I unplugged the power cord and pulled everything out of the freezer. Then I took the coil cover out. The unit was frozen solid. I used my wifes hair dryer to melt the ice on the coil and spray water with
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a bottle to speed up the process. It took about 15 minutes to melt the ice and plug the power cord again. The motor kicked on and the fan started blowing right away so I know it's not the fan. The following morning it was frozen again. I repeated the process of taking everything out and tested the heater element with a multimeter. It wasn't working allowing the ice to build over the coil so I replaced it. It took about 30 minutes to replace but two days later it froze again. I read a little to learn about the timer and the thermostat function in a refrigerator. The timer rotates to turn off the motor and turn on the heater element to melt the ice on the coil. I tried to rotate it but it felt too hard to turn and it smelled burnt out so I replaced it at once. It took me less than 10 minutes to replace. I also learn that the thermostat reaches certain temperature and activates the fan which blows the cold air out of the coil and throughout the fridge compartments. Because the coil and the thermostat were getting covered in ice, it was not activating the fan to blow the air out keeping the freezer side cold and the fridge side warm. By replacing them both, the thermostat and the timer I solved the problem. It took about 30 minutes to replace the thermostat but now it's working like a brand new one again.
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light did not work on the refrigerator side
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from GROVESPRING, MO
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what i
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s inside the refer!
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fan motor had gone bad
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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william from whitwell, TN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.
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Condenser Fan Failure
2 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Al from Tonka Bay, MN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great
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!
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cooling fan quit
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from Belhaven, NC
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Ordered new fan motor on line took out old motor and replaced with new one
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freezer and food section too warm
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Milford, MA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Socket set
removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.
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Replaced dorr closure cam on both doors of side-by-side
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Sandy, UT
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The fridge door was easy. Just unscrew top and lift off hindge. The freezer door took longer. But I had the user guide which helped. We unhooked the power harness at the top of the door, and disconnected the water line at the bottom of the door.
Frankly, it wasn't that hard for me because I had my son-in-law do it!
Frankly, it wasn't that hard for me because I had my son-in-law do it!
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Refrigerator would not stay cold
2 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeremy from State College, PA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Repl
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aced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)
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The door gasket was very hot which is caused by an overheated expansion line that runs along the area of the door gasket. This was caused by a failed cooling fan motor.
2 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Howell, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver
Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.
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burned oven bulb
3 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ivanka from Atlantra, GA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new ligh
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t bulb in was not the problem.
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refrigerated stopped cooling, noticed that coils at bottom of freeezer were all iced over
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kurt from Cumming, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Very easy repair. Remove 2 nuts that keep timer cover on regrigerater. Remove 2 screws that hold timer to cover, unplug wires from timer. Install new timer.
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Fridge contually cycles to defrost
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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andrew from oakland, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
With guidance from this web site, I was able to repair this myself very easily
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The right door was sagging and the handles were rubbing together
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Edmond, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, remove the plastic cover off the top hinge by removing the single phillips head screw.
Removed the three hex-head screws holding the hinge to the body of the fridge and then lift the hinge off of the door.
Lift the door off the bottom hinge and place on a flat surface so you can easily access the bottom.
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Remove the single hex-head screw from the center of the door part of the closure cam and pull it free. Install the new part.
Next, remove the bottom portion of the closure cam from the lower door hinge (still attached to the fridge) by removing the single hex-head screw. Install the new part.
If needed, lube the lower door hinge with Vaseline and carefully set the door back on. (This is the hard part if you are working alone, as it can be hard to line up the hole.)
Lube the top hinge, reinstall, and replace the plastic cover. Easy as 1, 2, 3.
Removed the three hex-head screws holding the hinge to the body of the fridge and then lift the hinge off of the door.
Lift the door off the bottom hinge and place on a flat surface so you can easily access the bottom.
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Remove the single hex-head screw from the center of the door part of the closure cam and pull it free. Install the new part.
Next, remove the bottom portion of the closure cam from the lower door hinge (still attached to the fridge) by removing the single hex-head screw. Install the new part.
If needed, lube the lower door hinge with Vaseline and carefully set the door back on. (This is the hard part if you are working alone, as it can be hard to line up the hole.)
Lube the top hinge, reinstall, and replace the plastic cover. Easy as 1, 2, 3.
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Refrigerator intermittantly thawing, not getting cold again.
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ALexander from Chocowinity, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Based on internet research, determined that the problem was likely the defrost timer or the thermostat that's clipped to the cooling coil behind the freezer. Once before, a repairman had replaced the thermostat only, so that was my first repair. Still not working right, so I replaced the timer as well, and everything's working. I opene
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d up the old timer switch and found the contacts were burned, partially arced.
If you have a similar problem, replace both parts. Only about $15 apiece
If you have a similar problem, replace both parts. Only about $15 apiece
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Defrost timer had quit working
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Wasilla, AK
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Wrench set
The repair was relatively simple.
The hard part was diagnosing the problem. Two of the sheet metal screws were hard to get at.
The online support helped in isolating and fixing the problem. The frig works fine again.
The hard part was diagnosing the problem. Two of the sheet metal screws were hard to get at.
The online support helped in isolating and fixing the problem. The frig works fine again.
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