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S2000D5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the S2000D5WW
31 - 45 of 292

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The zinc drive hub that connects the transmission to the tub had corroded away.
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Lapeer, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut an d hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.
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not agatating
13 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • pilar from covert, MI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.
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Water everywhere - overflowing washer
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sarah from Pylesville, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
We pulled up diagrams online and read a lot about the repairs. Four screws on top took off the electrical panel. Two clips hidden under the front of the top panel released the front panel. We followed the clear tube up to the water level pressure switch. We disconnected the previous switch, and connected the new one, one wire at a tim e. We tested and found that the water now stopped filling. Put the washer back together - done! Cost - $30 and 1/2 a hour total vs. calling a repair person.
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Capacitor failed (cracked, split, and melted a little), washer would not spin and laundry room filled up with smoke
8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from KELLER, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Went to PartSelect website, troubleshot the problem I was having for the model washer I have. Ordered part, once it arrived, I had it installed and all back together in less than 30 minutes. Washer has been running with no problems since the repair. PartSelect is awesome!
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Water Overflow
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shelby from Binghamton, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1) Unplug empty washing machine
2) Remove switch panel with star screw driver
3) Gently remove ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing from the water level pressure switch
4) From the front of the washing machine switch panel, pull water level switch knob straight off
5) Apply pressure to tin metal middle tha t holds the pressue switch in place so that the pressure switch can be rotated out of switch panel
6) Twist pressure switch off of the switch panel clockwise (from the front of the washing machine)
7) Set old pressure switch to the side
8) Place new pressure switch in tin groves and snap into place (the middle tap that you applied pressure to lock the pressure switch back into place)
9) Connect ground, two prong connector, and the water tubing to the pressure switch
10) Close washing machine panel and screw in all of the star screws
11) Push pressure switch knob back onto the pressure switch after aligning the hole to the rod
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transmission not working
12 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gene from Eddyville, KY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
Should be noted that the basket must be rotated on installation to find the best balance point!
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Water would not drain from tub.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Strafford, NH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I pulled off the front panel using a flat blade screwdriver to get it started. Then I could watch what happening as I tried starting the washer. When I put the dial to the Rinse Cycle and pulled the dial to start the washer, it would start to run for about 5 seconds and then stop. I tried this several times and the same thing h appened. I noticed the water pump located in the front lower right hand corner was not running. It would only hum. I drained the tub by holding the wash machine drain hose into a bucket. If I held the hose down toward the floor, the water would flow freely out of the hose and into my bucket. As the bucket filled up I just raised the hose, emptied the bucket and repeated the process until the tub was empty. Sure saved time over trying to empty the tub by bailing the water out with a can. After the tub was drained I removed the two hoses from the pump and then the two mounting bolts and the pump was out. I bench checked the pump with an electric cord and it stilled just hummed. I knew for sure then the pump was bad.

I then ordered a new pump from PartsSelect.com. I entered my wash machine model number and PartsSelect gave me a picture of the replacement pump. I was a little worried that it did not look the same as my old pump but I ordered it any how. The night I got the pump I installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems, it just worked like a charm. Thank you PartsSelect.com I will definitely use you for all my appliance repairs in the future. I know there will be more.
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Water was leaking from machine.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RUPESH from BELLFLOWER, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pu mp on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------
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Hose would not seal at rear of washer.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charles Wayne from Forest Hill, WV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the lea k and the hose seems to be working fine now.
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Water leaking from filler hose outside of tub
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Talihina, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
removed washer front panel, top panel to access the water fill spout and hose. Disconnected and replaced.
personnel at part select were very knowledgable about detailed part and the overnight service was right on time.
I would recommend part select for your next appliance parts needs.
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My washer was overfilling
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Torrance from Southfield, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
the repair was really easy. All I did take down the control panel, disconnect the wires, pop out the switch, and blow through the air hose. I didn't realize what a simple machine it was.
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Top had rusted out around the bleach dispenser and rusty water was getting in the clothes
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from FLORENCE, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Top panel was exactly what I needed and fit perfectly. To replace the top panel I first unplugged power. Removed control panel on top of machine. Removed front panel by placing a putty knife under front corners and pushing down on front panel. Removed two screws holding top panel to frame. Removed lid switch from top panel then removed li d from top panel. Lift up front of top panel and slide out of cabinet. Replaced new top panel in reverse order. The only thing I overlooked when ordering top panel was the plastic bumpers and rubber guides for the lid. Had to remove old parts from old top panel and use them. Overall job took about 45 minutes.
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all straps were broke due to over loadiing washer
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Danny from north kansas city, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry t o wash :-)
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washer was leaking (noticed during spin cycle)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Shady Point, OK
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the d rain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.
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I had a bad tub bearing and tub seal.
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Troy from N CHESTERFLD, VA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ri ng under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.
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All Instructions for the S2000D5WW
31 - 45 of 292