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S2000D5WW General Electric Washer - Overview

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DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK – Part Number: WH01X39337
$39.42
In Stock
DAMPENING STRAP 2PACK
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(38)
Part #WH01X39337
The tub dampening straps support the wash tub and reduce vibration by keeping the tub at the center of the cabinet. If your washer shakes and moves, or is making a loud banging noise during the wash cycle, the washing machine tub could be off-balance, meaning one or more of these straps may be loose, or broken. Other symptoms include: the washer leaking, not agitating, or pumping but not spinning. These straps are sold individually. However, we recommend that you replace all 4 straps at the same time. It is also recommended that you check the tub for cracks where these straps mount.
Selector Knob with Clip – Part Number: WH1X2721
$24.67
In Stock
Selector Knob with Clip
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(77)
Part #WH1X2721
The selector knob is what you use to start the dryer. This replacement knob comes with a retaining clip. This is a very easy repair, the only tool you may need is a pair of needle nose pliers. Remove the existing knob by pulling it off, making sure to remove the retaining clip as well. Line up the new knob with the D-shaped shaft and slide it into place.
Drain Hose – Part Number: WH41X10096
$36.37
In Stock
Drain Hose
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Part #WH41X10096
The drain hose is black in color and made of flexible material. This is a part for your top-load washer. The hose measures 57 inches long. This part moves the water out of the washer and into the drain. If this parts cracks or becomes damaged it will leak during the drain cycle of your wash and you may find water on the floor. To access the hose, you will need to move the washer away from the wall to get to the back of the appliance. There will be two screws holding it in place that will need to be removed.
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly – Part Number: WH23X10030
$61.55
In Stock
Drain Pump and Motor Assembly
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Part #WH23X10030
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time. If you notice that your washing machine will not drain, there is a good chance that you will have to replace the drain pump. The drain pump is located inside the washing machine, near the bottom. To access the drain pump for this repair, you will need to remove the front panel. Before you begin this repair, be sure that the power source is disconnected and the water source is shut off.
Tub Seal – Part Number: WH02X10383
$22.24
In Stock
Tub Seal
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Part #WH02X10383
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your tub seal may need to be replaced. You can check if the tub seal needs to be replaced by watching that area during an actual fill cycle. Take off the front panel, or if it is a front-loading washer, the rear panel. Without touching the washing machine, observe the place where the shaft of the transmission comes into the tub and the weep holes at the housing of the rear bearing. If there is water leaking, the tub seal is at fault. NOTE: This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
$16.05
In Stock
Tub Bearing Washer
Part #WH2X1197
This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
Split Ring – Part Number: WH02X10265
No Longer Available
Split Ring
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Part #WH02X10265
This split ring is supplied by the original equipment manufacturer, and it is designed to secure the tub bearing in washing machines. It is a circular metal ring, with an outer diameter of 2 inches. The ring has a split or gap, which allows it to expand and contract for easy installation and removal. It is typically located on the inner side of the washing machine outer tub, where it provides stability and prevents the washer from excessively shaking during use. It is normal for the split ring to become worn, corroded, or damaged due to age, exposure to moisture, and excessive stress. A faulty split ring will lead to a noisy, unstable washer and eventually cause the tub assembly to fall out of alignment. Remove the washer panels to access the outer tub and split ring. Carefully detach the damaged split ring from the tub and position the new split ring in its place. Ensure that it is properly aligned and securely fastened before reattaching the panels.
Tub Bearing – Part Number: WH2X1198
$43.94
In Stock
Tub Bearing
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Part #WH2X1198
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
Agitator Coupling – Part Number: WH43X10032
$30.39
In Stock
Agitator Coupling
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Part #WH43X10032
Bolt not included. This part connects the transmission drive shaft to the agitator base.
Compression Ring – Part Number: WH02X10093
$29.47
In Stock
Compression Ring
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(1)
Part #WH02X10093
Used in conjunction with the timer dial knob assembly.
Water Level Pressure Switch – Part Number: WH12X10065
$55.29
In Stock
Water Level Pressure Switch
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Part #WH12X10065
This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached.
Timer Dial – Part Number: WH11X10015
$47.40
In Stock
Timer Dial
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(3)
Part #WH11X10015
This dial is located behind the timer knob.

Common Symptoms of the S2000D5WW

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Replaced broken START knob on dryer.
504 of 515 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SAM from ROCK HILL, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.

I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.

I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.

My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.

My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.

I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com
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The inside of the Selector Knob was stripped
383 of 389 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Irvine, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease
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machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k
88 of 92 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from danby, VT
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Socket set
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.
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