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S200 - Instructions

All Instructions for the S200
121 - 135 of 441

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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noise tub moving too much
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jimmy from GRENADA, MS
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn 't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.
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drain hose was leaking near pipe in wall
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kerry from EVERETT, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I c ould remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.
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Would agitate, but not spin, leaving clothing soaking wet.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from DEKALB, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.
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Noisy on spin, leaking water
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from WOBURN, MA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.
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hammering on the tub nut wrench rotated the drive axle & pulley
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martin from LAKE ST LOUIS, MO
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.
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agitator not spiining under load
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Angela from Christiana, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the ne w coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.
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Washer Wasn't Draining
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • VITTORIO from PITTSBURGH, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
This was a easy job for the do it your selfer. I had no problem the part ,it was like the same one I took off. Now I know where to come for parts . It was perfect . Thanks again
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Would not agitate
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Syracuse, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Socket set
Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.
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Dryer Start knob was broken
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Walter from Boone, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered new knob from you people and simply replaced borken knob.
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Washer would not drain on any cycle
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from milford, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Use flat head screw driver to push in clips that hold on front panel.
use plyers to remove hose clamps on motor and remove hoses.
use nut driver and remove two screws holding bracket in place. disconnect two wire plugs.
Install motor and work above in reverse.
very simple 15min job at most.
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Washing machine quit pumpig the water out.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kelvin from Richland Hills, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
Removed the old one and installed the new pump, by removing the front cover and disconnect everything.
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Washer wasnt draining properly, yet you could hear the pump turning.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Syracuse, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it of f the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.
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Water Leaks
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from West Columbia, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set
I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.
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Washer not draining the water
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from East Islip, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1- Shut off water and unplug unit
2- Wedge flat head screwdriver in between front panel and side panel of washer and remove the front. (1 minute)
3- Get a towel and a bucket (if you still have water in it) and drain remaining water from back of washer first... Then be prepared for about 20oz more of water when disconnecting th e old pump. (5 minutes)
4- disconnect old pump it will look slightly different then the one you bought! (3 minutes)
5- re attach new pump with the same hose clamps and reattach the front panel (5 minutes)
6- fill it with some water/ spin it out

15 minutes - 30 minutes tops!
Good luck Matt East Islip NY
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Two out of Four Straps were Torn
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fred from Campbell, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.
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All Instructions for the S200
121 - 135 of 441