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RB636002 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the RB636002
91 - 105 of 236

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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bottom didn't heat.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rhonda from mauston, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
First removed screws then removed burned out element.Replaced with new element and replaced screws and cooked pizza.
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Vintage Oven Element stp working
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Cerritos, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Wrench set
Tried contacting GE and no luck, they did not have vintage parts. After searching and locating Partselect, I was able to see a pic of the actual replacement part. I wasn't sure about purchasing online (1st timer) but decided to go for it!

I was able to track the package, although FedEX was setup to deliver to my resdient, I had the package addressed to my office but we worked that out also and walla.

I was very please and now I can bake my famous Pot Roast again. The oven was not working for 8 mos.

Good Eaten!

SJ-Long Beach CA
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Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • andrew from langdon, ND
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch ) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
2 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Duvall, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.
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burner wouldn't heat
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jeff from monroe, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the burner, then the chrome dish. The nuts for the wires were rusted to the terminals, so I had to break the module apart and grind the nuts off.After that the new module went fine.
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Bake element was deteriorated
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Laura J. from Hammond, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Simply removed the old one and replaced it with the new one. Part Select was the only company that was able to identify the part without the Model Number. The Model number was
worn off and unable to read. After going through several
on-line parts dealers, Part Select was the only company that could identify the part I needed. The repair was simple and
short. My old stand by oven is in operation again.
Thanks, Laura
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Burner not heating properly
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Kokomo, IN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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We spotted a flame coming from the baking element in the large oven
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Alameda, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The repair was a bit difficult because the screws connecting the wires to the element were small threaded bolts and no slot for a screw driver. They were very difficult to break loose - that's when we used the Liquid Wrench and waited. Other than that, the repair went smoothly. It is better to remove the oven door, if you can, otherwis e the rear of the oven is not as accessible. It is also a good time to change the light bulb.
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Stove element not working
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dennis from redding, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
The only hard part of the job is removing the old, corroded terminal block. Be careful not to break the electrical wire. Other than that, just sand the contacts and reassemble. This is the second one I have replace on my 4 burner stove. 2 more to go.
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oven element stopped working
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Hampton, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
It was so easy, we got on the General Electric web site and entered the old model number, found our match and ordered the part. It came 3 days later and it was so easy to remove the old one and install the new one, only two screws to remove. Saved a lot of money by doing it ourselves! Thank goodness for websites like this!!
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No heat in oven, Only broiler working
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Inverness, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Element was in two pieces so it was obviously dead. I disconnected the stove from the power, I undid the two screws at the back of the oven and gently pulled the element out. There was enough slack to reach and pull the connectors apart. Done. I ordered the part from "PartSelect" and it arrived the next day. Unfortunately I ordered the el ement with "Screw" convectors as opposed to "push on" connectors. I bought a couple of connectors and cut off the original connectors from the wires in the oven and replaced them making absolutely sure they were well and truly tight. Two screws cam with the element from "PartsSelect (Thankfully). Connected the wires and screwed it back into place. Stood clear, plugged it in and turned it on to max. Worked just fine, Thanks
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Lower Baking element stopped heating after a 1" section melted and burned at a bend.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Ellisville, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed both screws to remove lower element, and measured it prior to ordering the replacement.
Then in a few days it arrived, and I installed it. The new element had small bolts rather than screws the original used to attach both wires. A flashlight was necessary in locating an keeping an eye on the wire ends, to keep them fr om being pulled inside the back cover, as the bolts were attached.
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The bake element 'fried itself'' -- making a horrible electrical noise and flaring up -- before dying.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeanne M. from Oreland, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First -- and thank goodness I read some of these stories first or I would have forgotten -- I turned off the circuit breaker to the stove.

I removed the two nut screws holding the element itself to the back of the over. Then I removed two more nut screws holding the element to the electrical wires. (This took some WD-40. The s tove is about 25 years old.)

That was about it. Everything lined up perfectly, and there was nothing more to do except reconnect the new element and throw the breaker back on. It works!
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The Bottom Bake Element had burned out and would not heat
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stanley from Inman, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First I turned off the breaker to the stove in the breaker box and then removed the two small screws that hold the element in place. I then carefully pulled the element out about 3 inches and using a 1/4 inch socket, I unscrewed the screws that held the wire on the bake element. There were two wires held in place with 2 small screws. I made sure that when I unhooked the wires they did not pull back into the back wall of the stove. I then removed the old element and put the new one in its place, hooked the two wires back up, pushed it back in place and secured it to the back of the wall of the stove with the other two screws. I then turned the power back on and presto, it worked perfectly. Like new again.
Thanks for everything.
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bottom heating element broken
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sharon from mt pleasant, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I was a little leary of using a website to order a part to fix my oven, but we got the part within a week. It was very easy to install and it works like a charm!
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All Instructions for the RB636002
91 - 105 of 236