RA5111J2 Hotpoint Range - Instructions
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Knob/switch would not turn right front burner on at all!
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from West Liberty, KY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enoug
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h slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!
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All burners on stove needed to be replaced due to age
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROY from CULPEPER, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Followed instruction that came in the new parts. Each element took about 10 minutes to remove, inspect the wires, clean the connections and reconnect the new elements. The element covers that came with the kit were easy to install, and everything fit just fine. Most important thing is to turn of the electrical power to the unit BEFORE
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you start.
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Broiler and Baking elements replacement
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Buford, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug range from its 220V source. Make sure range is not hot from recent usage. You’ll need a #2 Philips driver, preferably one with 14-18 inch length. The old screws will likely be very stubborn about coming loose. Two of them hold bottom element in. Remove the back panel so access to the two connectors on the bottom element are easily
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removable. Be very careful not to the let the wire connectors from the heating element drop down into the insulation. For the top element, there are four screws holding it in place, I found it was easier to access these two screws leaning the range backward at a slight angle. Take special care again not to let the wires drop down into the insulation. The connectors to the old element will likely need some extra effort to remove. The reconnection to the new elements should be ok. Make sure all screws go back in that were removed. The new elements will be amazing, and baking and broiling will be like new again.
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no power going to burner when switch is on, switch bad
2 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Woolwich Twp., NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My kn
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ob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.
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2 of the top burners did,nt work
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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charlie from lost creek, KY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers
Got parts super quick! Everything exactly the same for a range over 30 yrs, old!! Lift up element,(hinged)remove 1 mounting screw, disconnect 2 wires, remove & replace drip bowl,reconnect 2 wires,put on trim ring, replace mounting screw, lower element (hinged) back in place.
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Burner only worked on High and very low temperature setting.
2 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Duvall, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said ... Read more it would take.
Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said ... Read more it would take.
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Switch - and the connection wire to the burner
2 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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andrew from langdon, ND
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch
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) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.
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Burner not heating properly
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Kokomo, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and re
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move the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.
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Bad Element support
1 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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J.D. from Jasper, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered part on Thursday - it arrived the next day -
I repaired the Stovetop burner the following morning.
all went well, even tho I found another element wiring
routing wrong and correct it as well while there. It's
all working well now.
I repaired the Stovetop burner the following morning.
all went well, even tho I found another element wiring
routing wrong and correct it as well while there. It's
all working well now.
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The control knob stem broke off when I moved the stove.
3 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jonathan from Harvard, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters do
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n't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.
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old counter top stove in disrepair!
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lisa from Queensbury, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
We have the original 1970's counter top stove and the elements were breaking!!! My 13 year old son replaced the two elements (I think the process is not that hard to do and I don't know the steps... sorry!) and dad helped him make the drip bowls fit (since we haven't been able to find parts locally!)
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The burner sparked and no longer worked.
1 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Karen from Lancaster, MA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I held a flashlight directly on the repair sight while my husband disconnected the old burner unit and put on the new. The extra light was essential as it's kind of dark and part of the repair takes place partly under the stove top and our bodies were blocking the light coming from above. Also pay attention to how it is put together and
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make a note of it before you take it apart. Other than that it was very easy to replace the bad burner.
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Replaced rusted out Burner
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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alan from Tallahassee, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I have tilt up burners on my Range, and decided to replace one that have finally rusted out the part that holds it in place. Repair was easy- installed according to the enclosed instructions. Parts arrived in good condition and very timely. A+
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old units did not fit properly, and looked aged
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Yukon, OK
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
followed instruction that came with the parts. Looks great and was easy to install.
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Bracket under electric bruner was broken .
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Delores from Carlsbad, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I followed the instruction that was enclosed with the parts and found it to be very easy to install.
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