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PVM9215SK3SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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Microwave appeared to work. Fan worked, timer worked plate rotated. It just didn't heat the food!
7 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Hanover Park, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I purchased the fuse and 3 door switches from PartSelect. Replaced the fuse first but that did not solve the problem. Then I replaced the 3 door switches and problem solved!! So fuse only cost $5.00 so glad I have a new fuse in there as well. To see how to replace door switches see videos on utube!!
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Easy replacement
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carol from SURPRISE, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
If confused just go to YouTube. They can show you how to fix anything. Very simple replacement for both charcoal and regular filter. A snap.
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Lens Was Not Sized To Fit And Was Left Extremely Sharp
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from salmon, ID
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.
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Cracked Microwave Glass Plate
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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marielen from newport, RI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Odered replacement
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Unit would run when door is opened
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ernest from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgita
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l panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube
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Glass light lens cover was cracked
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Marion from GILBERTSVILLE, PA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I first read the previously posted directions from other customers that were sent with my part order confirmation, which were all very helpful. Then, I basically used a screw driver to unscrew the screw holding the lens cover in place - be careful as it is a very tiny screw and it can easily fall behind your oven. You might want to place
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a large piece of cardboard over the space between oven and wall, as I did, so that you don't lose the screw in case it falls. Next I pried open the prongs, carefully slid out the cracked lens, and slid the new lens in place, pushed back the prongs and put the screw back in. I found that it was easier to use my fingers to first place and tighten the screw because it is very small and will keep falling out of place if you try to just use the screwdriver. Good luck!
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Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of t ... Read more he freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of t ... Read more he freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
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microwave Quit working but lights worked
5 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rick from Muncie, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
llation
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Microwave will not start
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carlos from GLENDALE, NY
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.
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light lens broke a couple of years ago
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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KAREN from MANSFIELD, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.
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broken glass turntable
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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regan from oxford, MS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I placed the glasstop on the sprocket
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Still runs even the door was open
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Erwin from CONROE, TX
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward
Other Parts Used:
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motor on turntable quite working after 5 years
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Theodore from Batavia, OH
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
just followed what I saw on my computer from Amazon and the Manual easy to change the filter too
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You sent the wrong part.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from GRAYSON, GA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
Ordrerd by correct dinmensions of height and width. The GE replacement parts were too thin, but since I ordered two of them I glued them together. Works fine.
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Microwave would run when door was opened, tripped breaker, wouldn't run at times, door opening and close would help/hurt operation
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from FORT COLLINS, CO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attac
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hing the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.
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