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PDT760SSFSS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PDT760SSFSS
31 - 45 of 174

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left front burner would not turn on
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • manuel from key west, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed panel to gain access, removed wires from switch from burner that was not operating and attached them to switch for burner that was working. Burner worked, problem identified. Replaced bad switch with new switch. Problem solved.
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Plastic handle on dryer snapped off.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Carol Stream, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replacement handle easily snapped into dryer door. No skill or tool needed,.
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dryer handle broke off
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TERESA from IRONDALE, AL
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
once the part arrived, it was a perfect fit and just snapped on! DONE!
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Small radiant wasn't working but large was.
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joan from CLEMMONS, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Ordered the dual replacement. I am 76 so I had someone else do it. It took him about 15 minutes. Just pulled the oven forward about 8" so he could lift the top up. 2 Screws to release the top. Then just removed the part and plugged in the replacement. Rescrewed the top screws and pushed the oven back.
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F2 error; over heating, unknown reason
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from LEAVENWORTH, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part
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Oven temperature would not go above 240 degrees
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Glenn from Grapevine, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven tem perature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.
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Washer would not spin or drain
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randy from CANTON, NC
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I went to You tube sight to see how I can remove front of washer so I could inspect inside and see if the problem was visible. A butter knife easily released the tabs that hold the front of washer on. My wife in the mean time found a you tube video that showed the same problem and I ordered the part right away. It showed just two screws a nd a plug that had to be removed. I always buy my parts from part-select because the quality and speedy delivery and tracking is great! This was an easy fix!
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The oven did not get up to or hold the correct temperature
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from ARROYO GRANDE, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the c onnector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Tub seal leaking, grinding noise on spin.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from GRANDVILLE, MI
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Purchased spanner wrench for tub nut wouldn’t budge, impacted off. Then spin tub took 2days to get loose, lots of WD40 , also heated up center area, used a small sledgehammer head to hit a socket on the large part of the shaft . Had to take out outer tub to replace seal and support bearing unit.
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Broiler not working
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Teresa M from denver, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turned off electricity. Removed two screws that held the element in back of oven. Removed the two screws that held it up to top of oven. Disconnected the two wires that held it in the rear of the oven. Removed it from the top support. Replaced the old element with the new in the support. plugged it it, replaced all four screws. Turn ed on the electricity and turned on the oven-it worked!
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The dryer drum wasn't spinning, but I could hear the motor and feel the heat from the heating element.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from LAWRENCEVILLE, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn 't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.
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Interior burner of right front dual burner was out
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • MARK from PHOENIXVILLE, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Initially replaced the switch on the range--a simple job--pull the wires one by one and place them on the new switch. This did not resolve the problem, which meant that it was the burner, not the switch. I left the new switch in place and ordered a new burner. This, too, was simple, but involved creating a detailed drawing of the switch c onnectors rather than photos, which, because of the crossing of similarly colored wires, might have been confusing. The only hitch was that the burner is attached to the top by indented clips that fit into pegs at numbered locations on the burner. The clips were very difficult to open and situate, but once done (and this step was the only one where a second person was required) the top was closed and screwed back in place (two screws) and it worked perfectly.
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Inside burner did not heat
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
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All Instructions for the PDT760SSFSS
31 - 45 of 174