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PCB980DF3BB General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the PCB980DF3BB
1 - 15 of 234

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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
305 of 404 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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refrigerator was getting too cold
149 of 218 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Menomonie, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.
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Oven would go in to a F2 Error
148 of 226 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from stamford, CT
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
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Sticking Light Switch
122 of 178 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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terminal block melted
56 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jonathan from willow springs, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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fridge side freezes some items
55 of 77 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anthony from Murfreesboro, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wr apped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.
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freezer cold / fridge warm
46 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Mancos, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go
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9" Radiant Element did not heat up.
48 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrea from ORLANDO, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I started by Unscrewing the range top. 2 small screws. I took off the old piece by unclipping the piece . Then I color coded each wire so that I would know exactly where I would place the wires for the new part. 30 min maximum time spent changing the part. Please don't forget to unplug the range before you start.
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Oven wouldn't preheat above 300 degrees
54 of 95 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Cape Canaveral, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged appliance and removed 5 screws on back of stove/oven and removed plate. Disconnected the sensor and unscrewed it on the inside of the oven. Pulled the cord through and replaced with new sensor. Replaced all parts and plugged in the appliance and tested. Worked great.
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Freezer would not defrost correctly
32 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Milton, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.
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Ice & Ice Cream would melt and refreeze
30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from Suffolk, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.
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Knob broke off of the front of GE Cafe electric range
28 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kristosser from Sparks, NV
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Slide range out. Remove screws holding back vent in place. Remove back vent. Remove screws under front panel and knobs. Lift glass cooktop. Remove screws holding switch in place (behind knob) unplug each wire from switch and immediately replace in same spots on new switch. Replace everything.
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I kept getting An F2 error and the temperature did not seem accurate
29 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chad from Bloomington, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
1) pull out the stove
2) remove the 7 sheet metal screws holding the back panel on. (the panel that also covers where the cord splits and connects to the oven.
3) Find the small plastic connector located in the middle of the back of the range and unplug it.
4) open the front of the oven and remove the one screw holding in the oven temp sensor.
5) replace the sensor and make sure to "feed" the new cord through as best you can.
6) I had to dig through the insulation a little bit to find the new wiring harness
7) connect the wiring harness and put the back of the range back on

note: this was very simple to do if you think this might be the problem don't hesitate to handle this one yourself.
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Freezer and fresh food section getting warm due to inside coils frosting over.
24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Windham, NH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged r efridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.
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Top of frig would not cool. Now temperature display in in sync with the 37 degree setting I adjusted it to.
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • david from SMYRNA, GA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed frig bottom long drawer, removed the 2 narrower drawers above that. removed 2 plastic plates above the long drawer and unplugged pigtail. removed lower drawer slides and the back coil cover. removed small shroud that contained the fan pigtail and then removed the fan and replaced with the new one. fixed cooling issue and took 10 minutes from start to finish.
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All Instructions for the PCB980DF3BB
1 - 15 of 234